Wines of the Canary Islands

“Of all the world’s wine regions well off the beaten path, none is farther removed than the Canary Islands,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Located 60 miles off the coast of Morocco but governed by Spain, the Canaries are home to “some of the most unusual vineyards” anywhere, many of them carved into steep hillsides and nourished by black volcanic soil. Rare grape varieties dominate, in part because the Canaries were untouched by the 19th-century blight that almost destroyed Europe’s grapevines.

2008 Monje Tenerife Tinto Tradicional ($25). Canary reds are more consistent than the whites, and our favorite red delivers “a delicious wildness.”

NV Los Bermejos Lanzarote Espumoso Brut Nature ($52). Our favorite white from the Canaries is a “bone-dry,” richly textured sparkler.

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2010 Los Bermejos Lanzarote Rosado ($20). This pink wine proved to be our favorite of all. It’s “gutsy,” with flavors of “earthy fruit” and licorice.”