Finger Lakes rieslings

The area surrounding upstate New York’s Finger Lakes is “one of the most unusual American wine regions,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. The same deep lake waters that cool local vineyards in summer protect dormant vines from winter’s worst lashes, since the lakes almost never freeze. At least one grape thrives there: The region’s best rieslings are more than decent, they’re “world-class.”

2008 Ravines Argetsinger Vineyard ($33). Ravines makes a “superb” $15 dry riesling, but this is a “deeper, more intense” wine. It will age well.

2010 Hermann J. Wiemer Late Harvest ($23). This sweet but “thoroughly refreshing” riesling is made by one of the area’s most venerable producers.

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2008 Anthony Road Martini-Reinhardt Selection Riesling Trockenbeeren ($100 for 375 ml). A wine that’s sweet but complex, and “gloriously rich.”