Los Angeles has become one of the best cities in the world for Armenian cuisine, said Patric Kuh in Los Angeles. Armenia experienced a vast diaspora a century ago, and since the 1970s, Armenians have come in waves to L.A. from Lebanon, Iran, and the former Soviet Union. Each wave has brought with it its own versions of flatbreads, pickled vegetables, and skewered meats—cooking that retains its “nomadic heart.”
Araz Restaurant Studio City. You’d do well at this Russian-Armenian lunch spot to order the hummus, the labneh (a yogurt-based cheese), and the chicken Kiev, a version “so accomplished that it would have garnered a ribbon in Soviet times.” 11717 Moorpark St., (818) 766-1336
Chicken Al-Wazir Glendale. Pair grilled meats from this “kabob-packed menu” with abdoug, a yogurt-based Persian-Armenian soup dotted with raisins and mint. (Ask for it—it’s not on the menu but is always on hand.) 1219 S. Glendale Ave., (818) 500-1578
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Phoenicia Restaurant Glendale. People crowd tables at this Lebanese-Armenian spot to drink arak, an aniseed liqueur. Pair it with the “intense” muhammara, a puree of walnuts, pomegranate juice, and olive oil. 343 N. Central Ave., (818) 956-7800
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