Armenian in L.A.: The pleasures of a nomadic cuisine

Since the 1970s, Armenians have come in waves to L.A. from Lebanon, Iran, and the former Soviet Union.

Los Angeles has become one of the best cities in the world for Armenian cuisine, said Patric Kuh in Los Angeles. Armenia experienced a vast diaspora a century ago, and since the 1970s, Armenians have come in waves to L.A. from Lebanon, Iran, and the former Soviet Union. Each wave has brought with it its own versions of flatbreads, pickled vegetables, and skewered meats—cooking that retains its “nomadic heart.”

Araz Restaurant Studio City. You’d do well at this Russian-Armenian lunch spot to order the hummus, the labneh (a yogurt-based cheese), and the chicken Kiev, a version “so accomplished that it would have garnered a ribbon in Soviet times.” 11717 Moorpark St., (818) 766-1336

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