Wisconsin: Hooked on fish fries

Come Friday in Wisconsin, the scent of fried fish “calls like a siren” from the bars and restaurants that carry on one of the region’s great culinary traditions, said Carol Deptolla in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. And you don’t have to be a nostalgia hound to find a great Wisconsin fish fry: New Friday-night fish fries are popping up faster than I can keep up with them. Below are three of my prized recent discoveries:

Stolley’s Hogg Alley Oconomowoc. This is the kind of place that “restores one’s faith in fish fries.” Its tavern-like feel is friendly to bikers and families alike, and the fish—cod or bluegill in a light, crisp beer batter—arrives alongside excellent hot German potato salad and a “lovely” thin, oniony potato cake. 2008 N. Venice Beach Rd., (262) 646-5652

Savoy Piano Bar & Lounge Milwaukee. The fish fry at this onetime fine-dining restaurant packs a “satisfying crunch” and features a potato pancake that “reminded me of Mom’s.” 1962 N. Prospect Ave., (414) 270-1070

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Master Z’s Cue Club Waukesha. Cajun seasoning turns up the heat but “doesn’t overshadow the delicate flavor” of the high-quality fish at Master Z’s, a traditional bar, complete with loud music and pool tables. 2454 N. Grandview Blvd., (262) 522-3615