Eating ethically: Restaurants that make it possible

The challenges of eating ethically didn’t stop with having to ask waiters whether vegetables had been raised organically.

“With a few glorious exceptions,” my attempts to eat entirely ethically for a single month turned out to be “an exercise in frustration,” said Alan Richman in GQ.com. The challenges didn’t stop with having to ask impatient waiters whether vegetables had been raised organically or if meat had come from factory farms: I was also “subject to constant disparagement” when I tried to return bottles for recycling or asked for a coffee mug instead of a disposable cup. Still, I found that chefs concerned about ethical eating routinely produced excellent food, not just because the “products were better” but because they were determined to do them justice. These dishes were my favorite from the month.

The Pit

Raleigh, N.C.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/flexiimages/jacafc5zvs1692883516.jpg

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

This ethical barbecue joint uses the “juiciest, sweetest, tangiest tomato slices” in its fried green tomatoes. Each is breaded and served “with a relish as complex as the tomato itself.” 328 W. Davie St., (919) 890-4500

Evangeline

Portland, Maine

Chickens raised on “thickened, soured, unpasteurized milk” perfectly complement seafood in the clabber-fed poularde and poached Maine lobster tail. 190 State St., (207) 791-2800

Grange Kitchen & Bar

Ann Arbor, Mich.

The brioche-crusted walleye here shows why the Great Lakes are so great—the fish had a “sole-like flesh” and a crust with a “light, sweet accent.” 118 W. Liberty St., (734) 995-2107

To continue reading this article...
Continue reading this article and get limited website access each month.
Get unlimited website access, exclusive newsletters plus much more.
Cancel or pause at any time.
Already a subscriber to The Week?
Not sure which email you used for your subscription? Contact us