Eating ethically: Restaurants that make it possible
The challenges of eating ethically didn’t stop with having to ask waiters whether vegetables had been raised organically.
“With a few glorious exceptions,” my attempts to eat entirely ethically for a single month turned out to be “an exercise in frustration,” said Alan Richman in GQ.com. The challenges didn’t stop with having to ask impatient waiters whether vegetables had been raised organically or if meat had come from factory farms: I was also “subject to constant disparagement” when I tried to return bottles for recycling or asked for a coffee mug instead of a disposable cup. Still, I found that chefs concerned about ethical eating routinely produced excellent food, not just because the “products were better” but because they were determined to do them justice. These dishes were my favorite from the month.
The Pit
Raleigh, N.C.
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This ethical barbecue joint uses the “juiciest, sweetest, tangiest tomato slices” in its fried green tomatoes. Each is breaded and served “with a relish as complex as the tomato itself.” 328 W. Davie St., (919) 890-4500
Evangeline
Portland, Maine
Chickens raised on “thickened, soured, unpasteurized milk” perfectly complement seafood in the clabber-fed poularde and poached Maine lobster tail. 190 State St., (207) 791-2800
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Grange Kitchen & Bar
Ann Arbor, Mich.
The brioche-crusted walleye here shows why the Great Lakes are so great—the fish had a “sole-like flesh” and a crust with a “light, sweet accent.” 118 W. Liberty St., (734) 995-2107
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