Feature

Baltimore’s new top chef

After chef-owner Bryan Voltaggio began appearing on Bravo&rsquo;s <em>Top Chef</em> reality show, waiting times for reservations started stretching to weeks.

The hottest restaurant in Baltimore isn’t in Baltimore, said Elizabeth Large in the Baltimore Sun. It’s Volt in Frederick, Md., 50 miles to the west. After chef-owner Bryan Voltaggio began appearing on Bravo’s Top Chef reality show this season, waiting times for reservations started stretching to weeks.

Although the New American cuisine can run to $75 a person and up, it’s “worth the trip and the cost.” The menu changes seasonally, and dishes are appealing “both intellectually and viscerally.” Meals begin with a chef’s canapé and fennel breadsticks. The first-course charcuterie plate is “a work of art” that shows the range of pork “from rillettes to headcheese.”

Among the entrées, the pork loin with fennel, plums, and Swiss chard makes you just “want to curl up and get cozy.” Another autumn offering is the guinea fowl “jauntily sharing space with a pretty bit of cabbage,” some parsnips, and warm Concord grapes. Perhaps the best dish, though, is the halibut accompanied by ruby quinoa, winter squash, and Marcona almonds.

228 N. Market St., Frederick, (301) 696-8658; Voltrestaurant.com

Recommended

Finland clears final hurdle for NATO membership, will be admitted by July
Finnish President Sauli Niinisto and Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan
Done Deal

Finland clears final hurdle for NATO membership, will be admitted by July

Honeybees help gather data about a city's health
Honeybee on flower.
buzz buzz

Honeybees help gather data about a city's health

Pope Francis hospitalized with respiratory infection
Pope Francis.
get well soon

Pope Francis hospitalized with respiratory infection

Amsterdam launches campaign urging rowdy British men to 'stay away'
Amsterdam Red Light District
causing a nuisance

Amsterdam launches campaign urging rowdy British men to 'stay away'

Most Popular

The snowmelt in California could cause a long-lost lake to re-emerge
flooding in Corcoran, California.
lost lake

The snowmelt in California could cause a long-lost lake to re-emerge

The 8 most bizarre moments of Gwyneth Paltrow's ski crash trial
Gwyneth Paltrow
downhill

The 8 most bizarre moments of Gwyneth Paltrow's ski crash trial

33 swimmers in Hawaii accused of 'pursuing, corralling, and harassing' dolphin pod
A group of swimmers chase after a pod of dolphins.
Leave 'Em Alone!

33 swimmers in Hawaii accused of 'pursuing, corralling, and harassing' dolphin pod