Baltimore’s new top chef
After chef-owner Bryan Voltaggio began appearing on Bravo’s Top Chef reality show, waiting times for reservations started stretching to weeks.
The hottest restaurant in Baltimore isn’t in Baltimore, said Elizabeth Large in the Baltimore Sun. It’s Volt in Frederick, Md., 50 miles to the west. After chef-owner Bryan Voltaggio began appearing on Bravo’s Top Chef reality show this season, waiting times for reservations started stretching to weeks.
Although the New American cuisine can run to $75 a person and up, it’s “worth the trip and the cost.” The menu changes seasonally, and dishes are appealing “both intellectually and viscerally.” Meals begin with a chef’s canapé and fennel breadsticks. The first-course charcuterie plate is “a work of art” that shows the range of pork “from rillettes to headcheese.”
Among the entrées, the pork loin with fennel, plums, and Swiss chard makes you just “want to curl up and get cozy.” Another autumn offering is the guinea fowl “jauntily sharing space with a pretty bit of cabbage,” some parsnips, and warm Concord grapes. Perhaps the best dish, though, is the halibut accompanied by ruby quinoa, winter squash, and Marcona almonds.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
228 N. Market St., Frederick, (301) 696-8658; Voltrestaurant.com
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Why ghost guns are so easy to make — and so dangerous
The Explainer Untraceable, DIY firearms are a growing public health and safety hazard
By David Faris Published
-
The Week contest: Swift stimulus
Puzzles and Quizzes
By The Week US Published
-
'It's hard to resist a sweet deal on a good car'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published