America’s best hot dogs

I have “crisscrossed America searching for the best hot dog in the land,” said Raymond Sokolov in The Wall Street Journal. Leading contenders could readily be found in New York, Los Angeles, and, above all, Chicago. But it was in a Boston parking lot that I found “the wiener with the most wow, the frank of all franks.” My criteria were simple—traditional hot dogs on very good buns in establishments with plenty of local color. I avoided major-league arenas and “places that have foie gras on the menu.” Here are the winner and runners-up:

The Winner

Speed’s, Boston

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Supplier: Pearl. Price: $7. Speed is “a quietly gregarious old man” who operates his shop in a “gritty” parking lot in Newmarket Square. He coaxes such wonderful flavor out of locally supplied dogs by marinating them in apple cider and brown sugar. Then he grills them over charcoal and toasts the buns. Newmarket Square. No phone

Runners-up

Gene and Jude’s, Chicago

Supplier: Vienna Beef. Price: $2.07. Classic, no-grill Windy City dogs

served with mint-green relish and “pesky sport peppers. Service is brisk.” 2720 N. River Road, River Grove, Ill. (708) 452-7634

Pink’s, Los Angeles

Supplier: Hoffy. Price: $2.95. “There’s always a line at Hollywood’s landmark wiener stand.” Order the chili dog.

709 N. La Brea Ave., (323) 931-7594

Shake Shack, New York

Supplier: Vienna Beef. Price: $3.75.

A serious, Chicago-style dog “with all the trimmings.”

Madison Square Park at 23rd Street, (212) 889-6600