Best books … chosen by Phoebe Damrosch

Service Included, Phoebe Damrosch’s memoir about waiting tables at the four-star restaurant Per Se, was selected by The New York Times as one of the 100 notable books of 2007.

Tummy Trilogy by Calvin Trillin (Farrar, Straus & Giroux, $16). Under the guise of “food writing,” Trillin covers family, place, politics, history, and the quirky, hilarious truths about life. I could easily have listed Feeding a Yen here; in fact, I don’t believe that Trillin has written a bad book on any subject.

Home Cooking by Laurie Colwin (Harper Perennial, $8.50). Pick this one up when you get tired of reading wide-eyed writings about molecular gastronomy, worshipful stories on the noble radish, or four-figure restaurant bills. Colwin’s sincere approach to home cooking—and to writing—is truly satisfying.

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