In 2022, Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava Reference 5226G to its collection – a vintage style with a white gold case and a charcoal grey dial finessed with a slightly grainy texture recalling the coarse-grained leather of antique camera cases. Sleek, simple and sophisticated, this watch touched on the enduring romance and nostalgia of this classic dress model first launched in 1932.
This year, the luxury Swiss watchmaker known for its savoir-faire, in both craft and micromechanical expertise, has gone down a much sportier route for the Reference 6007 Calatrava model, proving that when it wants to, the manufacture likes to show its “more exuberant” side, said Mike Razak on A Blog to Watch.
Three new white gold versions – with yellow, blue or red accents and a matching seconds hand – delicately hint at motor racing thanks to their modern graphic style, pops of colour and embossed guilloché centres patterned with a “carbon” design that looks a little like a chequered flag, and which is repeated on the calfskin strap. The strap is possibly the biggest departure for this classic style since each iteration has stand-out stitching to match the red, blue or yellow colour accents of the dial as well as a block colour leather back in one of these primary shades.
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Measuring 40mm in diameter and 9mm thick, the 6007G is equipped with the relatively new self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, which can be seen through the sapphire case back and which boasts a 45-hour power reserve. While seasoned Patek pilgrims and watch purists may have flinched a little when it was initially revealed, it definitely shows a brave shift in thinking on behalf of the Swiss watchmakers. Because if you are “looking after your Patek for the next generation”, as its long-held strapline goes, it stands to reason that younger consumers will gravitate towards a sporty model that retains an heirloom feel, one that embraces a dynamic set of design features in a way that still feels authentic and faithful to the past. In terms of longevity, relevance and versatility, it’s a smart move.
It does feel “very Patek” that, for its “colourful Calatravas”, it would choose the three primary colours, said Anthony Traina on Hodinkee. “No reason to spin the colour wheel around too far.” While perhaps more expensive than an old Calatrava – starting at a reported $37,850 (£30,456) – the new 6007G “strikes a workable balance between traditional and modern, sport and dress, restrained and colourful”.
This is after all what happens at heritage houses like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Hermès when they revamp, rekindle or reconfigure a classic handbag or luggage collection. Tomorrow’s Patek Philippe customers are all too familiar with this kind of artistic curation that embraces the experimental and the unexpected.
