Fine dining on a budget: what the food critics recommend

For those who want to dine well without spending a fortune, here’s a selection of restaurants newly awarded a Bib Gourmand in the 2023 Michelin Guide. The award is given to establishments offering excellent, good-value cooking.

1. The Pelican, London

45 All Saints Road, London W11

The “gutsy food” at this Victorian boozer in London’s Notting Hill has “a British heart”, said the Michelin Guide. On the flexible, well-priced menu are such “hard to resist” classics as faggots with peas and carrots, and the establishment’s signature dish, mince on toast. With a wide events programme as well – from a book club and movie afternoons to Pilates classes – The Pelican is the kind of pub “we’d all like to have at the end of our street”.

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020-4537 2880; thepelicanw11.com

2. The Blaise Inn, Bristol

260 Henbury Road, City of Bristol

This “simply decorated village inn” – not far from the “famous folly” Blaise Castle – serves traditional British dishes, often cooked with a modern twist and an emphasis on seasonality, said the Michelin Guide. Make sure to leave room for the “terrific” desserts: perhaps rhubarb and ginger whim wham, or Turkish spiced mocha pots with whipped cream. Service is “personable”, and there’s a “pleasant rear courtyard”.

0117-907 1115; theblaiseinn.co.uk

3. Plaza Khao Gaeng, London

Arcade Food Hall, 103-105 New Oxford Street, London, WC1

“With an open kitchen and electric pop blaring”, this Southern Thai restaurant in central London has a “buzzy, vintage vibe”, said the Michelin Guide. Chef Luke Farrell grows many of his ingredients in a tropical greenhouse in Dorset – and he uses them “deftly” in his “wonderfully authentic, punchy” curries. Try the “hearty” beef shoulder Massaman – “or, if you’re feeling adventurous, the fiery Klua Kling Muu (dry wok-fried pork)”.

plazakhaogaeng.com

4. The Spärrows, Manchester

16 Red Bank, Green Quarter, Manchester

“Nestled under the railway arches in Manchester’s Green Quarter”, The Spärrows specialises in the pasta and dumpling dishes of central and Eastern Europe, said the Michelin Guide. There are spätzle, pielmieni and “excellent” pierogi, all made in-house and served with various sauces. Non-pasta options include Swiss fondue and goulash Tyrolese. The focus on Eastern Europe extends to the wine list, which leans towards Polish wines.

0161-302 6267; thesparrows.me

5. EDŌ, Belfast

3 Capital House, Unit 2, Upper Queen Street, Belfast

Edo is “I eat” in Latin – and the food at this “smart, modish brasserie” makes you want to do just that, said the Michelin Guide. The menu is international in flavour and the dishes are designed for sharing – three to four per person is perfect. Many are cooked over apple or pear wood in the kitchen’s Bertha oven. You might be offered roast scallops, lardo and hazelnut, or a flat-iron steak with a bone marrow jus.

028-9031 3054; edorestaurant.co.uk

6. Kushi-Ya, Nottingham

1A Cannon Court, Long Row, Nottingham

Set in a “simple yet inviting first-floor space”, this Japanese restaurant in Nottingham specialises in kushiyaki – skewers of meat or veg cooked over a charcoal grill, said the Michelin Guide. Prices are “easy on the pocket”: skewers of beef, and black garlic mustard will set you back £7.50; two of Brussel sprouts and kimchi butter is just £6. In addition, there’s a tempting range of small plates – such as raw salmon, smoked tosazu and wasabi.

0115-941 1369; kushi-ya.co.uk