A luxurious lodge in the Julian Alps

man walks over suspension bridge near Julian Alps

Crystal-clear lakes, 'tumbling' waterfalls and 'soaring' peaks

(Image credit: AlenaPaulus / Getty Images)

published 30 November 2024

A prized hunting ground of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy, Slovenia's Julian Alps enjoyed a second vogue in the 1960s, when the likes of Agatha Christie and Jean-Paul Sartre holidayed among their "soaring" peaks. With their crystal-clear lakes, green glacial valleys and "tumbling" waterfalls, they are astonishingly lovely, said Laura Coffey in The Times, and have lately enjoyed another moment in the limelight with the opening of some "smart" new hotels and private chalets. Most of these sit beside Lake Bohinj, which lies at the heart of the range, below the serrated limestone ridge of Mount Triglav, the symbol of Slovenia and, at 2,864 metres, its highest peak.

Among the best places to stay are Hotel Bohinj, Sunrose 7, and Fox on the Rocks (an "elegant" chalet), but I opted for Vila Muhr, a hotel at the eastern end of Lake Bohinj. Originally built in 1902, it was used as a hunting lodge by the king of Yugoslavia from 1922, who hosted royal visitors from across Europe. Under communism, it fell into disuse and eventually collapsed under snow, but it has recently been rebuilt with original stones and reclaimed timber. It makes a "cosy" hotel, with just four suites, all with "wraparound" balconies and two with private saunas. And it is a great base from which to explore the mountains, and lies within striking distance of two Michelin-starred restaurants, the "surprisingly informal" Hiša Linhart (in the medieval town of Radovljica), and Milka, where the food is particularly "bold and punchy".

It's said that you're not a "true Slovenian" unless you've made it to the top of Mount Triglav. The climb took me two days, with a night in a mountain hut, and an expert guide, Mitja Šorn, who roped me to him as we negotiated the via ferrata along the mountain's ridge. If all that sounds a bit much, though, there are lots of "smaller and easier" peaks to aim for, and much else to do outdoors, including riding, mountain biking, and kayaking on Lake Bohinj.