An Alpine ski tour from Andermatt to Engelberg
The Urner Haute Route features some of the wildest terrain in the Alps

Ski touring in the Alps can be "glorious", taking you away from the crowds and into snowy valleys so "still and silent", you might imagine yourself in Antarctica. The most famous ski tour adventure is the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, but there are many others, said Tom Robbins in the FT – and none are better than the Urner Haute Route in Switzerland. The Chamonix-Zermatt route was devised by members of Britain's Alpine Club in 1861 as a summer itinerary, and first skied in 1903. These days it is so popular, it can feel "a bit like a procession", whereas the Urner – between the off-piste havens of Andermatt and Engelberg – is relatively quiet. Known as "the skier's haute route", it includes "a succession of steep north-facing descents", in some of the wildest terrain in the Alps.
Perched in the Uri Alps, Andermatt was once a garrison town so bleak that when D.H. Lawrence visited in 1912, he couldn't face staying the night. Latterly, it has become a hang-out for the "jet set", owing to a £1.3bn investment that has transformed it into an upmarket ski and golf resort. But up in the peaks and valleys, things feel as "rugged" as ever. The route begins with a ride on a little rack-and-pinion train up to the Oberalp Pass, where you fix adhesive skins to your skis, and set off uphill. Engelberg lies only 30km away as the crow flies, but the journey passes through such a "tangle of ridges and valleys" that most people set aside five days for it.
You don't need to be an "extreme skier", but you should be fairly fit and have some touring experience. It's also best to go with experienced guides, not least because of the risk of avalanches, and to book accommodation in advance. Options include "lonely" refuges such as the Maighelshütte, and village stops such as the "picture perfect" Gasthaus Göscheneralp.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The trip costs from £1,187pp ($1,500) with Andermatt Guides; andermatt-guides.ch
Sign up to The Week's Travel newsletter for destination guides and the latest trends.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The sneaky rise of whooping cough
Under the Radar The measles outbreak isn't the only one to worry about
By Theara Coleman, The Week US
-
7 nightlife destinations that are positively electric
The Week Recommends Accra, Seoul, Berlin: These are a few of the cities that come alive after dark
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US
-
Crossword: April 15, 2025
The Week's daily crossword
By The Week Staff
-
The Canadian: taking a sleeper train across Canada
The Week Recommends Unique and unforgettable way to see this 'vast and varied' landscape
By The Week UK
-
Adjapsandali: Georgian-style ratatouille recipe
The Week Recommends Twist on the authentic recipe offers bursts of garlic and spices
By The Week UK
-
Unlocking the wonders of Bhutan
The Week Recommends Exploring this Himalayan nation has never been easier
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US
-
Mr Burton: an 'affecting' but flawed biopic
Talking Point Toby Jones is pitch-perfect as Richard Burton's mentor – but 'cautious' film 'never really comes to life'
By The Week UK
-
6 display-ready homes for art collectors
Feature Featuring hand-painted floors in Louisiana and 13-foot beamed ceilings in New York City
By The Week US
-
Your Friends and Neighbours: Jon Hamm stars in 'frothily fun' black comedy
The Week Recommends Crime caper about a hedge fund manager who resorts to burgling his 'obnoxious' neighbours after losing his job
By The Week UK
-
Last Swim: a 'lush, beguiling' coming-of-age adventure
The Week Recommends Exam results day drama follows a group of school leavers, one of whom has a devastating secret
By The Week UK
-
The Sleep Room: a 'gripping exposé' of a 'troubled' psychiatrist
The Week Recommends Jon Stock's absorbing book about William Sargant's sinister practices makes for a 'chilling' read
By The Week UK