Go where few have gone before: the icy wilds of Greenland
The world's biggest island has been flying under the radar, until recently


Greenland is a bit of a mystery to many people. Its island neighbor, Iceland, gets most of the attention, and not everyone knows that both countries have similarly stunning landscapes, massive glaciers and, during certain times of the year, near-nightly views of the northern lights. With more flights scheduled for Greenland and the expanded Nuuk Airport set to open in late 2024, the spotlight seems to be shifting. Greenland is preparing for its Arctic closeup.
Getting around
Flying is one of the only ways to travel between towns and settlements in Greenland
It takes some planning to wander Greenland. There are no roads or trains between the island's towns, so the easiest way to get from one destination to the next is by air. Air Greenland flies planes and helicopters to towns across the country, and from April to December, ferries run from Qaqortoq up to Ilulissat. Once you are in a town, there are multiple internal transportation methods, including buses, taxis and boats.
What draws intrepid visitors to Greenland, population 56,661, is its remoteness. "Fly down the west coast and you'll past countless fjords and glaciers crowded only with birds and reindeer," The New York Times said, adding that it is far more likely to spy "humpback whales, narwhals, polar bears and musk oxen than to see a tour bus." This "big nature," as Lonely Planet called it, is awe-inspiring.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Look to the heavens
The northern lights can be seen year-round in Greenland, but are most spectacular in the winter
Being able to see the northern lights dance across the sky is a dream made into reality in Greenland. This phenomenon regularly occurs here from late August to April and appears especially dazzling thanks to minimal light pollution. While there is "really no bad place to watch the northern lights in Greenland," the optimal experience can be had in western Kangerlussuaq, "which is blessed with more than 300 clear nights per year," Condé Nast Traveler said. Greenlandic sled dogs can also take travelers to more remote areas for even clearer views of the aurora borealis.
Marvel at the Ilulissat Icefjord
The massive icebergs in the Ilulissat Icefjord inspire wonder
There are places in the world that leave you speechless, and the spectacular Ilulissat Icefjord is one of them. Nature watching at this UNESCO World Heritage Site is "off-the-chart amazing," Lonely Planet said, and you could "spend all day cruising between icebergs and comparing their shapes and colors" while keeping a look out for whales and other wildlife. The icebergs were calved from Sermeq Kujalleq, the world's fastest moving glacier, and fill a space that is the equivalent of 66,000 football fields.
The views from Hotel Arctic's igloos are unforgetable
For a real treat, book a stay in one of the Aurora Cabins at the Hotel Arctic. Made of aluminum, these igloos are designed so guests can clearly see the northern lights and vast beauty of Disko Bay. This is "big, in-your-face wilderness," The Times said, with guests enjoying the "thunderous rumble of a calving glacier" and "immense icebergs floating on by." These cozy cabins let you experience nature while shielded from the elements, with luxurious touches like heated floors and walls.
Find color and culture in Nuuk
Houses and other buildings in Nuuk are painted bright and cheerful colors
To explore Greenland's culture, head to Nuuk. This is the country's capital, and home to more than a third of its population. Rich in history, there are several museums, like the Greenland National Museum, that dive into the island's heritage. Exhibitions there focus on early Norse settlements, Inuit ways of transportation, whale oil refineries and the Thule people, who are the ancestors of today's Greenlanders, .
Get a taste of local life at the Katuaq Cultural Center, a "striking building in the center of town" where diners can feast on burgers, hot dogs made of musk ox meat, and Greenlandic tapas, "typically small bites of seasoned local delicacies like prawns, mussels, smoked salmon and perhaps whale," Lonely Planet said. While at the center, see what is on the day's agenda: There might be a concert, poetry reading, art exhibition or movie playing in the cinema.
You can still enjoy the great outdoors while inside your hotel in Nuuk. The rooms at Hotel Hans Egede feature lovely mountain and fjord views, and for more space, book one of the property's 15 apartments, which come with full kitchens and dining rooms. To cap off your day of gawking, go to the Skyline Bar on the fifth floor for a drink and nightly entertainment.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Catherine Garcia has worked as a senior writer at The Week since 2014. Her writing and reporting have appeared in Entertainment Weekly, The New York Times, Wirecutter, NBC News and "The Book of Jezebel," among others. She's a graduate of the University of Redlands and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.
-
Critics' choice: Reimagined Mexican-American fare
Feature A shape-shifting dining experience, an evolving 50-year-old restaurant, and Jalisco-style recipes
-
Here We Are: Stephen Sondheim's 'utterly absorbing' final musical
The Week Recommends The musical theatre legend's last work is 'witty, wry and suddenly wise'
-
The Trial: 'sharp' legal drama with a 'clever' script
The Week Recommends Channel 5's one-off show imagines a near future where parents face trial for their children's crimes
-
How to plan a (road) trip along the Mississippi River where the water isn't the star
The Week Recommends See this vital waterway from the Great River Road
-
7 US cities to explore on a microtrip
The Week Recommends Not enough vacation days? No problem.
-
Slovenia is ready for its moment in the travel spotlight
The Week Recommends Mountains, lakes, caves and coastline await
-
Splish, splash is just the beginning when you have everything you need for a rollicking pool party
The Week Recommends Fire up the snow cone machine, and turn on that outdoor movie projector
-
How to create your perfect bedscape
The Week Recommends Nighttime is the right time to get excited about going to bed
-
How to enjoy the coolest of coolcations in Sweden
The Week Recommends You won't break a sweat on Lake Asnen or underground at the Adventure Mine
-
One great cookbook: 'I Dream of Dinner (so you don't have to)'
The Week Recommends The endless ease and versatility of a painless dinner
-
Crime alongside friendship, death as unrelenting force, and a music star's album companion piece all star in May's movies
The Week Recommends The Weeknd is back on the big screen, Wes Anderson pulls another ensemble cast and a horror franchise about death gets a new life