Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel: a foodie haven in Portugal's Douro Valley

Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel exterior with river

Incredible views: the hotel looks out over the Dom Luís I Bridge

(Image credit: Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel)

published 12 May 2025

I'm no oenophile but I have always loved a glass of port. I used to have a little decanter by my bedside and I'd pour a small glass if I couldn't sleep. So I jumped at the chance to stay at the newly opened five-star Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel in Portugal's Douro Valley. Kopke is the name of the world's oldest port wine producer, founded in 1638, and the hotel centres around the regeneration of the historic port cellars in the Gaia riverside district, in the heart of the city.

Everything at Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia is inspired by the production of port, from the room numbers which look like the chalk labels on port barrels to the spa menu which includes the fabulous "Essence of Kopke" – a body treatment with hot schist stones from local vineyards, a vibration mat made of corks, wine-infused candles and grape-extract oils. And of course you can try a vintage tawny or a signature port cocktail in the funky wine bar, with its floor-to-ceiling bottle display, or enjoy a tasting, as we did, with the charming, knowledgeable in-house sommelier Albert.

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There are 149 luxury rooms, including nine suites, complete with plush beds, flat screen TVs, Nespresso coffee machines and even a pillow menu. The interiors are decorated in earthy, burgundy tones, with historic photographs of winemaking in the Douro Valley, and striking artwork and sculptures. Our room had a little terrace, where we enjoyed a glass of port on our first evening as we admired the breathtaking view over the river and the city beyond. The Tivoli Spa also makes the most of the fantastic views, which can be enjoyed from the beautiful indoor hydropool, with its circuit of spa jets. There's a steam room, sauna and gym, too, plus an outdoor pool.

There are plenty of options for eating and drinking in the hotel, thanks to three-Michelin-starred executive chef, Nacho Manzano. The hotel's signature restaurant, 1638, combines the legacy of the Porto region with the vibrant flavours of Iberia. The tasting menu offers 11 gastronomic "moments", each paired with a glass of wine from the Douro region, including vintage whites and tawny Kopke ports. Dinner there is a rare treat: a sensational, unforgettable experience, with impeccable service.

Breakfast is served at the Boa Vista Terrace restaurant, which is also open for lunch and dinner. It has a more relaxed vibe, but the Atlantic-inspired food is equally delicious: think comforting prosciutto croquettes, melt-in-the-mouth smoky aubergine, and refreshing, tiny chunks of pineapple in a mint soup to finish. The fabulous breakfast buffet is also worth mentioning – an incredible spread, including mini versions of Portugal's famous custard tarts (pastel de nata), cold meats and cheeses, smoked salmon blinis and fruit platters. You can even pick your own microgreens, and make a tea infusion with cinnamon and star anise. There are plenty of other spots to enjoy a glass of port, a light bite and soak up the views, from the rooftop Sky Bar to the Pool Bar.

There is so much to explore in this vibrant city, and it is all within striking distance of Tivoli Kopke. The first day, we strolled down to the waterfront and took a short boat tour up the Douro to see the six bridges – a great way to discover the city and get our bearings. The city is on two distinct levels, and there is a cable car and a funicular to get you up and down the steep hills. Cross the Dom Luís I Bridge and you find yourself in the heart of the old city, with myriad beautiful churches adorned with blue and white azulejo tiles.

We'd enjoyed watching "Portugal with Michael Portillo", so we headed to the iconic Bolhão food market. Set in a renovated, galleried neoclassical building, it sells beautifully presented fresh fish, meat, flowers, cheese and coffee, and there are tables dotted around the edge where you can sit with a crisp glass of white wine and watch the world go by. Unlike Portillo, we avoided the tripe but enjoyed the most amazing seafood lunch for less than €30 for two. The highlight was a sardine and scallop ceviche with red peppercorns and dill, served simply with melba toast. Afterwards, we walked to the Livraria Lello, said to be the most beautiful bookshop in the world. It is a magical place – said to have inspired some of the scenes in the Harry Potter film series – and is well worth visiting.