Widely regarded as the "gold standard" of skincare, retinol has "almost magical properties", said GQ. "Unlike a lot of the inexact science pushed by 'age-defying' products, it actually works."
But retinol's holy grail status now faces a challenge, in the form of new EU legislation imposing a cap on the percentage of pure retinol allowed in over-the-counter facial skincare products.
What is retinol? A derivative of vitamin A, retinol "improves skin texture, collagen production and cell turnover", said The Independent. It reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation, and is also prescribed to treat acne.
However, it can cause irritation such as redness, dryness and peeling – known as "retinol purging". Rarer side effects include eczema flare-ups, skin discolouration and swelling.
Why limit retinol concentration? The new legislation will limit retinol concentration to 0.3% for facial skincare products and 0.05% for body lotions. The aim is to "protect consumers from the theoretical risk of overdosing on vitamin A", skincare expert Dr Sam Bunting told Stylist. Too much vitamin A can cause liver damage, and "very high levels might harm the unborn foetus in pregnant women".
And rather than being water soluble like many other vitamins, it is fat soluble, so "your body can't get rid of it in the same way it can vitamins B and C", said Elle.
The vast majority of vitamin A is consumed through diet, but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety argued that cosmetics add to overall exposure. The legislation came into force at the end of 2023, but brands have been given three years to reformulate products.
Will retinol products still be effective? Consumers are "still likely to get noticeable benefits from retinol 0.3%", Bunting told the magazine. The cap won't apply to prescription creams either, so people who need a heftier dose of vitamin A, such as acne sufferers, will still be able to access it.
This legislation is broadly "a good thing", said Chloe Burcham, beauty editor at Women's Health. Retinol is "not for everyone", especially children and teenagers who have emerged as a rapidly growing market for skincare. |