Long-standing claims of verbal and physical abuse at renowned Copenhagen restaurant Noma have finally “come back to haunt” its founding chef, René Redzepi, said The Times. The “culinary god” has stepped down after his “toxic” kitchen culture was exposed by a damning new investigation.
Empire built on ‘pain’ Redzepi (pictured above) has been “rewriting the rules of fine dining” since Noma opened in 2003, said The New York Times. His innovative approach scooped him three Michelin stars, and in 2013, culinary star Anthony Bourdain proclaimed him “without a doubt, the most influential, provocative, and important chef in the world”. But an upcoming residency in Los Angeles “sparked a public conversation” about Redzepi’s treatment of his staff, some of whom came forward with claims that his empire was built on their “pain”.
A total of 35 former staffers, employed between 2009 and 2017, made allegations of serious abuse, including that Redzepi “punched employees in the face” and “slammed them against walls”. Several claimed he would “jab them in the legs with his fingers or a nearby utensil, like a barbecue fork”. They also described threats to get staff members “blacklisted” or “have their families deported”.
Warning signs Noma developed a reputation as an “enlightened kitchen”, but the “signs of what was really going on” were all there, said former restaurateur Richard Crampton-Platt on UnHerd. Redzepi was filmed “screaming at chefs” in the 2008 documentary “Noma at Boiling Point”. In 2015, in an article for a food magazine, he wrote that “I have been a bully for a large part of my career”.
For years, fine-dining kitchens have been “run like military brigades”, with poorly paid workers putting in long hours amid a culture of harassment, said US chef Andrew Gruel in the New York Post. Professional kitchens marred by exploitation and alcohol and drug abuse are the price of the excellence that food critics and “elite diners” demand. Before Redzepi’s resignation, tickets for Noma’s LA pop-up had sold out. The reality is that there are “plenty who can happily separate the art from the artist”, said The Times, as long as “the kitchen is thoroughly soundproofed”.
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