Italian-born chef Fabio Trabocchi turns to the culinary traditions of his homeland for inspiration, said Joyce Wadler in Food & Wine. Trabocchi grew up in a remote part of Italy called Marche, which is located on the other side of the Apennine Mountains from Rome. He now oversees Fiamma in New York. He first learned how to marinate a pork rib roast from his father, and during the holidays, he and his family typically re-create some of the dishes he enjoyed while growing up.

Recipe of the week
Citrus-Marinated Pork Rib Roast

Two 5-bone pork rib roasts, about 4 pounds each
6 garlic cloves
6 whole cloves
3 lemons, zest removed in strips with vegetable peeler, lemons juiced
3 oranges, zest removed in strips with vegetable peeler, oranges juiced
20 fresh bay leaves
8 rosemary sprigs
2 tbsp fennel seeds, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp juniper berries, coarsely chopped
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Roasted small apples and pears (see note), for garnish

Using paring knife, make three 1-inch-deep slits on fatty side of each pork rib roast closest to bones. Stud garlic cloves with whole cloves; stuff into slits. In baking dish, combine lemon and orange zests and juices with bay leaves, rosemary sprigs, fennel seeds, juniper berries, and ¼ cup olive oil. Add pork; turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning occasionally. Bring pork rib roasts to room temperature before roasting.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Scrape off marinade; generously season pork with salt and pepper. In very large skillet, heat remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Add pork and brown over moderate heat, turning occasionally, about 15 minutes. Transfer pork rib roasts to large roasting pan. Roast about 1 hour and 20 minutes, rotating pan once or twice, until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 140 degrees. Transfer pork to cutting board; let rest 20 minutes. Cut pork between rib bones into 10 chops. Transfer to plates; garnish with roasted apples and pears and serve. Serves 10.

Note: Score apples to prevent skin from splitting. Roast fruit at 350 degrees for about 1 hour, until tender.