Chopard introduces the L.U.C Time Traveler One and GMT One

In the late 1980s, I was convinced that, to tackle the high-end mechanical-watch market we needed a genuine and integrated approach to in-house watchmaking. I analysed the opportunities, including existing manufactures that might be purchased or taken over, but concluded the only way forward was to build our own from scratch. The first step was to master an initial base calibre as opposed to a complication; we would work from the bottom up and then go on to build more complex timepieces. From this, our first in-house movement, the L.U.C 1.96, was born.

It was certainly easier said than done. The biggest challenge was having patience, which I underestimated because I was very enthusiastic. The further we developed, I realised this kind of thing takes time. Even 20 years ago, you could already work well with computer-aided design, so the planning stage was in some ways the easier part and very convincing, as you could see a watch materialise on your screen. But between this stage and actually making it a reality was a steep learning curve.

We were really the early bird in developing in-house manufacturing, and even ten years later, other brands were struggling to introduce their own calibres and movements, because the capacity to do so was harder to find. By this time, we had already set up a team and were into our third L.U.C watch project. Today, we can genuinely say we're as well integrated in watches as we are in jewellery, and we're able to produce everything that counts in-house.

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To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Chopard manufacture, we're launching our first world-time watch, the L.U.C Time Traveler One, as well as our first timepiece to feature a dual-time function built into the movement, the L.U.C GMT One. I've been thinking about introducing these complications for many years, as I felt it would really complement the collection of other functions we already offer, such as a chronograph and perpetual calendar, which are the cornerstones of a manufacture.

It's a useful complication but also a very contemporary one, because people today travel and work extensively across different continents. It's also very decorative in terms of design, and last but not least, relatively affordable, especially when opting for the stainless-steel version. It's extremely wearable for business, but also a little sporty at the same time. We always want to make sure we offer interesting innovation, so you're not just buying prestige and marketing value, but a really interesting watch both inside and out.

KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE is the co-president of Chopard, the independent, family-run business he heads up with his sister Caroline. The company will be exhibiting at watch fair SalonQP in London from 3 to 5 November; chopard.com; salonqp.com