Paris Fashion Week: Brands are still courting Millennials

From Balenciaga to Chanel, the catwalks are shifting focus

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Maria Grazia Chiuri got Paris Fashion Week off to a youthful start at Christian Dior (pictured above), continuing in a vein set when she started at the house a year ago. Patchwork 70s denim, glitter minis, sheer long skirts, and lots of low-heeled lace-up knee boots and patent Mary Janes dominated the show. According to Jo Ellison at the Financial Times, some critics baulked at the shift from the brand's ball gown-spangled history. But those Mary Janes recall Chiuri’s financial miracle, the "Rockstud" shoe, which attracted droves of wealthy young consumers to Valentino. No doubt her knack for a bankable accessory got her the job at Dior. And more than just the "socially well-observed" low heel, Sarah Mower at vogue.com, suggests that "what sets Chiuri slightly apart is that she's a woman who is more than aware that she’s also talking to the 'woke' generation – to people who are the age of her own children – and she respects their minds." Indeed, feminist slogans have been at the heart of Chiuri’s re-design, this season with art historian Linda Nochlin's seminal essay "Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists", emblazoned on a striped mariniere knit.

At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello's open-air extragavanza at the foot of the Eiffel Tower divided the critics. Vanessa Friedman at The New York Times appraised the collection with the unflattering summary of, "Shorts. Or, to be fair, sex and shorts; in a multitude of increasingly provocative ways. The steam rising off the fountains of the Trocadero in the background simply added to the effect." Mower at vogue.com in contrast, gave it a thumbs up. "In circumstances that must have been hugely daunting, Vaccarello passed the test with singular focus and conviction. Without being too obediently or heavily referential, his collection read as a seamless journey, one that that began with the hippie souvenirs of Marrakech and ended in the grand haute couture tradition of Saint Laurent's atelier in Paris."

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