The Scarlet: sustainable luxury on Cornwall's rugged north coast

The train journey from London Paddington to Bodmin in Cornwall has to be one of the UK’s most enjoyable. Between Dawlish and Teignmouth, the train hugs the sea wall as the vast expanse of glittering sea seems to lap at the side of the carriage and passengers are actually distracted from their devices for a few moments as the train rattles over Brunel's mighty Royal Albert Bridge, leaving behind the pigeon-grey hues of the terraced rooftops at Plymouth.

It's a half-hour taxi ride from Bodmin Parkway to the four-star, adults-only Scarlet Hotel, which overlooks the sweeping Mawgan Porth bay, roughly halfway between Padstow and Newquay on Cornwall's rugged north coast. Taking the train here feels appropriate – the Scarlet is a champion of sustainable luxury.

Why stay here?

The Scarlet is a fine choice of hotel for the environmentally conscious traveller. Designed and built with sustainability at its heart, there are no chemicals to filter the outdoor pool – just reeds and algae, while the roofs of the hotel are covered with sea thrift, providing native plants for local insects. The indoor pool is warmed by a sophisticated solar system that works even on cold winter days, and heating is generated through a biomass boiler.

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There are no slippers in the rooms – part of the hotel's ethos of living with less – but a small organic cotton bag is provided for guests to take home the soap provided by local Cornish makers. There are no tea or coffee facilities either; rather the staff will bring freshly made tea or coffee to your room on demand. Eco-conscious holidaying has never felt more decadent.

The drawback of an eco hotel in hot weather is that there is no air con. There's no promised sea breeze, either, but it's no bother with the Scarlet making it easy to play your part for the planet. Time to slip gamely into the hotel's natural outdoor pool, gloriously cold and strewn with waterlilies and the odd newt for company. There's also a bar for sinking a cold cocktail. There are ways to keep cool on a hot day – and the Scarlet has perfected them.

Eating and drinking

Dining at the Scarlet is a total delight. It offers a limited menu, but one that allows a choice that can be difficult to make. Starters such as local lobster and mussels with nduja, or a cool, white gazpacho – a revelation on a hot day – are followed by local hake served with bejewelled roe and caper gems and very fine, crispy fried potato strips. It’s super posh fish and chips, undeniably familiar and delicious, and a dish you thought couldn't be improved – but is exactly what you expect, and want, from a first-rate restaurant. The service is brisk and polished; the staff are friendly and knowledgeable. I am recommended a very good Armenian white wine, Zorah Chilar, and an excellent Spanish Albarino. The Iberian vibes are further proof you need not fly abroad, guzzling up carbon as you go, in order to feel you've had a proper holiday in the sun. The fabulous desserts – glorious combinations of chocolate, pistachio, honeycomb and strawberries – are hard to resist, or fault.

Things to do

One of the main draws of the hotel is its enviable location perched above the bay, and a spot perfect for lazy afternoons spent watching the restless tide come in and out, the determined surfers and the evening dog-walkers. The hotel also has a wonderful, not-to-be-missed outdoor hot tub overlooking the bay and fabulous outdoor plunge pool – booking in advance is essential.

For pure relaxation, personalised Ayurvedic treatments are available in lantern-lit, tented treatment rooms, alongside bespoke, daily wellbeing classes including yoga, tai chi, and meditation.

It's hard to imagine wanting to leave the hotel or its surroundings, but if you do it’s wonderful to be able to slip out the gate at the bottom of the property and immediately find yourself on the South Coast West Path. Take either direction for wonderful views and dramatic scenery, and tearooms if you head eastwards to Bedruthan. In late June, the path is decorated with fragrant honeysuckle and the delicate pink flowers of unending blackberry bushes. It is a very special part of the world.

The verdict

The hotel is gloriously unfaffy – within minutes of checking in, I'm sitting on the outdoor terrace with a cold drink, and watching the sunset from the outdoor hot tub is very special indeed. Occasionally, the service can feel ever-so-slightly scatty, and some of the rooms are lacking in privacy – by the end of my stay, I am keenly aware that the couple next door are engaged and feel almost personally acquainted with their family and friends who have been told the happy news via loud, rapturous phone calls. But they're the only downsides.

The changing climate is evident during my stay, with dramatic weather – a blazing hot sun transforming to a biblical downpour within moments. Still, in uncertain times, it's nice to know you can bank on a truly brilliant hotel with a climate-friendly conscience.

Felicity Capon was a guest at The Scarlet; scarlethotel.co.uk