Desert wellness in Scottsdale: the best of Arizona's Old West

"Out here, everything wants to stick, prick or bite you," a guide warns me about the Sonoran Desert. That may be the case, but it's a risk worth taking given Arizona's many attractions.

I certainly got the warmest of receptions after landing at Phoenix airport before heading east to nearby Scottsdale, where the Sun shines 330 days a year and the attractions are just as dazzling. A young-at-heart city with Old West charm, this Arizona hotspot is a prime destination for an injection of healthy living (literally, if you fancy an IV vitamin drip). But what really sets Scottsdale apart are the wellness-boosting activities on offer in the surrounding desert – provided you avoid its more hazardous inhabitants.

Desert wellness experiences

Located in the Salt River Valley, aka Valley of the Sun, Scottsdale typically gets less than eight inches of rain each year, yet the desert landscape is surprisingly green and diverse. With massive cacti dotted across the sand and mountains beneath a blazing blue sky, venturing out here is like stumbling onto the set of a John Wayne movie.

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This picture-perfect setting offers stimulation for all the senses, with odours courtesy of creosote, an ancient plant that emits a tangy, refreshing scent when wet and which many locals identify as the smell of rain. The Sonoran Desert's other natural treasures include the prickly pear, used in a variety of skincare products, and the granddaddy of cacti, the saguaro, which can live for hundreds of years and grow to more than 40ft tall.

The range of wildlife is even more impressive, from rabbits and skunks to hawks, bobcats and the odd mountain lion, plus reptiles galore including rattlesnakes. That final addition to the list may make visitors nervous, but rest assured the majority of bite victims are young men who try to grab one of these shy vipers after a few too many beers. Or so I was told.

Assuming no snake-grabbing takes place, this desert wilderness is packed with opportunities to bolster your physical and mental well-being. Hiking is a popular option, with more than 400 miles of trails in the area. I trekked halfway up Pinnacle Peak, a granite summit with a 3,000ft elevation, but more challenging tracks include the nearby Tom's Thumb Trail.

For a more relaxing experience, a "zen hike" to embrace the growing trend of desert bathing will do the trick – this mindfulness exercise, similar to forest bathing, involves connecting with the desert environment through slow walks and observation.

Those who like to go with the flow can also enjoy kayaking on the Lower Salt River, which originates in the mountains of northern Arizona. Under the expert care of guide David from Cliff Creek Outfitters, even a novice like myself felt like a frontier explorer as I splashed through a series of (admittedly, weak and shallow) rapids and drifted past banks where wild horses cool off.

Riding on horses of the less wild type is another fun way to get some exercise while soaking up the pure desert air, and again, lack of experience is no problem. Led by the wonderfully patient Joe from Windwalker Expeditions, I hit the trail on Rap, an equine with attitude who quickly made clear who was in charge, leaving me free to relax – once I'd overcome my initial nerves – and enjoy the sunset.

Few experiences could top that, but watching the Sun rise over the desert from a hot air balloon just might. I'll never forget the exhilaration of soaring to an altitude of 4,400ft during an early-hours expedition with Hot Air Expeditions pilot Don, who ditched his day job and bought a balloon following just one trip into the sky.

Back on the ground, there are further ways to boost body and soul in Scottsdale city, where holistic health is big business. I tried tapping into therapeutic vibrations with a sound bath at Shanti Sound – like a meditation session with a soundtrack of gongs and other instruments. The physical sensations evoked ranged from tingles to, more bizarrely, buzzing teeth, but I emerged feeling more relaxed.

The same could be said after my trip to Second Nature Clinic, where naturopath and author Dr Meghana Thanki offers Ayurvedic treatments including massages and IV vitamin drips. Medics are divided on the efficacy of the latter, but chilling in the clinic's Zen Lounge while nutrients flow directly into your bloodstream is, at least, more memorable than popping a pill.

What else to do in Scottsdale

Along with wellness experiences, there are many other types of good living to be had in Scottsdale. The city, which spans 184.5 square miles, is home to a mix of cultures, from traditional western cowboy to Mexican and Native American (the Pima and Maricopa tribes reside on Scottsdale's eastern border on the sovereign land of the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community).

For that great cultural unifier, shopping, Old Town Scottsdale has a tempting blend of boutiques for those must-have cowboy boots and accessories. You can gussy up your home too, with purchases from the district's many art and souvenir stores including the Native Art Market, Old Town's first Indigenous-owned shop.

For a further culture fix, head to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, the late architect's winter home, studio and campus in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains. Built by Wright and his apprentices in the 1930s using desert rock, it is now a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Fans of horticultural landmarks are catered for at Scottsdale's Desert Botanical Garden, where some 50,000 plants from deserts worldwide are on display. Visitors can digest the sights along with a meal at the garden's on-site restaurant Gertrude's, which has seasonal menus celebrating Arizona's food growers.

Where to eat in Scottsdale

Food – especially the nourishing kind – is a major draw in Scottsdale, which is on track to become Arizona's first designated "Blue Zone", part of a growing movement of community well-being initiatives. The goal is to make it easier to make healthy choices, with restaurants joining schools, worksites and grocery stores in introducing small changes that can have big effects.

One such restaurant is Arcadia Farms Café, in downtown Scottsdale, where the more nutritious meals are marked with a Blue Zones logo on the menu and salt is banned from the tables. That might sound more virtuous than appetising, but the delicious French-focused food being served up says otherwise.

Another Scottsdale institution for diners seeking a more balanced lifestyle is True Food Kitchen, which was packed when I visited. And for good reason, judging by the teriyaki quinoa bowl I hoovered up.

For modern Latin cuisine and an edgier ambience, The Mission is a favourite with visitors and locals alike. With towering tacos, and guacamole mixed to your tastes at your table, the food is as attention-grabbing as the interior, which includes a marble bar and a wall made from Himalayan rock salt (drinkers used to lick it to help the tequila go down, pre-Covid).

Within stumbling distance sits another must-eat destination, The Frybread Lounge. The many highlights on the menu at this Indigenous-owned restaurant include its namesake, a fried flatbread served with toppings both sweet and savoury. Healthy, no, but it feeds the soul.

If you can only eat in one place in Scottsdale, though, make it FnB, where award-winning chef Charleen Badman maxes out the flavours of local produce in her innovative and ever-changing menus. At the risk of sounding like a weirdo, I still daydream about her "Mexican street carrots". And don't miss co-owner Pavle Milic's curated Arizona wine experience, including creations from his own vineyard.

Wine and beer buffs should also check out Raven's View Wine Bar, in Tonto Hills, just north of Scottsdale. But for an authentic cowboy saloon, head back to Old Town to the Rusty Spur, where the live music and Old West hospitality has attracted celebrities including Jennifer Aniston, Clint Eastwood and, back in the day, the legendary "Duke" Wayne.

Where to stay in Scottsdale

A-listers have flocked to Old Town's Hotel Valley Ho over the years. Designed by Wright's architectural disciple Ed Varney and built in 1956, the hotel was a hideaway for Hollywood stars including Bing Crosby, Tony Curtis and Zsa Zsa Gabor. Natalie Wood and Robert Wagner held their wedding reception here shortly after it opened and, so the story goes, ended up chasing down their LA-bound train in a convertible after the celebrations overran.

The hotel provides a worthy setting for such drama, with colourful retro rooms circling the party-central OH Pool and quieter OHasis Pool, overlooked by The Tower, a high-rise block of spacious suites. Recently restored to its former splendour, the hotel is popular among luxury lovers lured by the modern amenities, minimalist design and decorative touches such as the Fender guitars hanging in the lobby (a gift from the makers, whose headquarters are nearby).

Star billing goes to the hotel's Blue Zone-approved restaurant ZuZu, and the VH Spa, from which I emerged glowing after a Hollywood-standard facial.

Spa time is also a must at the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North, a hotel with a more serene vibe on the outskirts of town. Located in the foothills of Pinnacle Peak, the 40-acre former desert ranch is a stunning sprawl of 210 rooms and adobe (dried mud brick) casitas amid vibrant wildflower blooms.

The award-winning resort has been graced by the presence of Oprah Winfrey and played host to our own Boris Johnson, among others. The former PM will surely have appreciated the dining options here, comprising contemporary steakhouse Talavera; the poolside Saguaro Blossom for lighter fare; main restaurant Proof, billed as an American Canteen serving comfort food with a twist; and the Onyx Bar & Lounge, which hosts live music sessions at the weekends. My personal dining highlights included a tip-top afternoon tea at Onyx and pretty much the entire breakfast menu at Proof.

Nighttime at the resort also sees highlights of the cosmic kind taking centre stage, with complimentary stargazing sessions, led by a professional astronomer, on offer.

And let's not forget the pampering opportunities. A cactus massage sounds like an oxymoron, but the resort's spa has turned it into a speciality with its blissful Nopal Massage, during which warm gel from the nopal (prickly pear) cactus is applied to the skin via cactus paddles.

I'm still wary of the desert's pricking and biting predators, but with everything else it has to offer, I'm definitely stuck on Scottsdale.

Kari Wilkin stayed at Hotel Valley Ho and Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon Park as a guest of Experience Scottsdale and travelled with British Airways and American Airlines