Wine: Nebbiolo alternatives

Fans of Barbaresco and Barolo “already understand how elegant, nuanced, and soulful nebbiolo can be,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But the king of Italian grapes goes by other names outside Piedmont’s Langhe region, which is one reason that some wonderful nebbiolo wines often fly under the radar. Three such wines to know: Valtellina, Carema, and Gattinara, all named for their regions.

2009 Mamete Prevostini Valtellina Superiore Sassella ($30). A superb value, this Valtellina is “complex and delicate, with flavors of dark fruit, flowers, and earth.”

2009 Ferrando Carema ‘White Label’ ($45). Luigi Ferrando’s widely admired Carema is “complex and beautifully delineated.”

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2006 Monsecco Gattinara ($40). This Gattinara is “bright yet rich,” delivering “fine tannins” and “classic, lingering aromas and flavors.”