Grüner Veltliner redux

Give Grüner Veltliner another chance, said Elin McCoy in Bloomberg.com. Though U.S. sommeliers have long since embraced other trends, they were right a decade ago when they pushed this “peppery, lively” Austrian white as an antidote to oaky chardonnays and dull sauvignon blancs. Austria’s national grape still makes perhaps “the best-value great white wines in the world.”

2008 Knoll ‘Vinothekfullung’ Smaragd ($60). Grüners offer a wide range of aromas and flavors. This one’s “savory, with tingling acidity and a long finish.”

2010 Prager Achleiten Stockkultur Smaragd ($65). Another wine from the prestigious Wachau region, this Grüner “has a powerful mineral character, with intense notes of lavender.”

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2010 Hiedler Maximum Reserve Kamptal ($35). “Juicy, with hints of lime,” this white can even stand up to noted “wine killers” like artichokes.