Wine: Washington state

Following a “major” growth spurt, the Washington wine industry “feels right-sized right now,” said Jon Bonné in the San Francisco Chronicle. Some major players have begun pandering to pedestrian tastes, but quality has become common at all price levels. If there’s a trait the best all share, it’s freshness.

2009 Gramercy Cellars Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50). “A pitch-perfect example” of the region’s capabilities. This cab blend has hints of tobacco and a “gravelly” core.

2009 Scarborough Wines Royale Columbia Valley Red ($30). “Heady accents” of tea and bayberry make this “one of the best Washington blends to appear in a while.“

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2009 Covey Run Quail Series Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($9). An amazing value, this is “a legit cabernet, with a proper leafy aspect to its chewy black currant and olive flavors.”