Vouvray: An underdog white

Wines made from the chenin blanc grape “are so underappreciated,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Because the Loire Valley is almost alone in using the grape well, chenin blancs are not nearly as popular as chardonnays or Rieslings. Even Vouvrays, the best-known of chenin blancs, are “priced gently given their high quality.” Among a “bevy of superb Vouvrays” now in the marketplace, here are three of the best.

2009 Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec ($30). Our favorite Vouvray is “stunning in its complex, intense flavors of lemon, honeysuckle, mint, and minerals.”

2009 François Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir ($23). This “rich and succulent” wine offers a hint of ginger and a “touch of sweetness.”

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2009 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition ($20). Our “best value” selection is densely textured, and “more savory” than the Silex Noir.