L.A.’s ‘quintessential’ French bistro

In Los Angeles, a bistro and brasserie revival has been in full swing for some time, said S. Irene Virbila in the Los Angeles Times. Just this past year saw the opening of a “bumper crop” of enticing new restaurants, including Anisette in Santa Monica, Comme Ça in West Hollywood, and Church & State downtown. Yet, for me, nothing quite compares to Marché Moderne, the “quintessential modern French bistro” that opened in Costa Mesa in 2007. Chef-owner Florent Marneau’s savory Alsatian tartes flambées are baked in his own wood-burning oven. Bouillabaisse is the Thursday night special, and he also does a beautiful job with steak tartare, moules frites, and braised rabbit with mustard. But the high point is Marneau’s charcuterie, including such delights as rabbit rillettes, duck terrine, and head cheese. “Add in his wife Amelia’s luscious desserts, and it’s a destination.” 3333 Bristol St., Suite 3001, Costa Mesa, (714) 434-7900