Founded by ranchers in the early 20th century, the village of Pueblo Garzón, in the southeast of Uruguay, flourished for a few decades, then withered when the railway that ran through it closed. By the 1970s, it was all but a ghost town – but lately it has seen an extraordinary rebirth, says Mark Johanson in the FT, as restaurateurs, wine-makers and artists have moved in, “enchanted by its unpaved streets and time-warp nostalgia”.
Owing to the influx of arty visitors, “rustic-chic” boutique hotels are opening in its abandoned 1920s houses – yet the settlement retains its quiet, “dilapidated” charm.
It was the Argentinian celebrity chef Francis Mallmann who precipitated the village’s revival, by opening a restaurant and a five-room hotel, Garzón, on the edge of its “palm-lined” plaza. It drew its clientele from the chi-chi beach resort of José Ignacio, 30 minutes’ drive to the south, and from further afield (Uruguay’s capital, Montevideo, is 90 miles west).
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Then the businessman Alejandro Bulgheroni planted vines in the surrounding countryside, which now produce excellent “Tannat-heavy” red blends, including an elegant Balasto. In 2016, he launched a “lavish” winery, Bodega Garzón, outside the village, and other boutique wineries have since opened, including Compañía Uruguaya de Vinos de Mar, which has a good restaurant.
Among the first artists to arrive was the US photographer Heidi Lender. Her creative institute, Campo, has a canteen where visitors mingle with resident artists. The Uruguayan artist Pablo Atchugarry has recently opened a sculpture park and a contemporary art museum, MACA, nearby, and there are several other new exhibition spaces in Pueblo Garzón, including the “ambitious” Walden Naturae.
The period from late December to late January is particularly lively, with three festivals to enjoy – the Campo Artfest, the José Ignacio International Film Festival and Este Arte, in nearby Punta del Este.
-
Political cartoons for February 19Cartoons Thursday’s political cartoons include a suspicious package, a piece of the cake, and more
-
The Gallivant: style and charm steps from Camber SandsThe Week Recommends Nestled behind the dunes, this luxury hotel is a great place to hunker down and get cosy
-
The President’s Cake: ‘sweet tragedy’ about a little girl on a baking mission in IraqThe Week Recommends Charming debut from Hasan Hadi is filled with ‘vivid characters’
-
Kia EV4: a ‘terrifically comfy’ electric carThe Week Recommends The family-friendly vehicle has ‘plush seats’ and generous space
-
Bonfire of the Murdochs: an ‘utterly gripping’ bookThe Week Recommends Gabriel Sherman examines Rupert Murdoch’s ‘war of succession’ over his media empire
-
Gwen John: Strange Beauties – a ‘superb’ retrospectiveThe Week Recommends ‘Daunting’ show at the National Museum Cardiff plunges viewers into the Welsh artist’s ‘spiritual, austere existence’
-
Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl: A win for unityFeature The global superstar's halftime show was a celebration for everyone to enjoy
-
Book reviews: ‘Bonfire of the Murdochs’ and ‘The Typewriter and the Guillotine’Feature New insights into the Murdoch family’s turmoil and a renowned journalist’s time in pre-World War II Paris
-
6 exquisite homes with vast acreageFeature Featuring an off-the-grid contemporary home in New Mexico and lakefront farmhouse in Massachusetts
-
Film reviews: ‘Wuthering Heights,’ ‘Good Luck, Have Fun, Don’t Die,’ and ‘Sirat’Feature An inconvenient love torments a would-be couple, a gonzo time traveler seeks to save humanity from AI, and a father’s desperate search goes deeply sideways
-
A thrilling foodie city in northern JapanThe Week Recommends The food scene here is ‘unspoilt’ and ‘fun’
