Having closed its borders when Covid hit, the little Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan finally opened them again to tourists in September. Those that come must pay a $200-per-day “sustainable development fee”, up from $65 before the pandemic, which is designed to control numbers and protect the country’s environment and culture. But there’s also a new attraction to enjoy, says Mary Holland in the FT – the Trans-Bhutan Trail, a 250-mile hiking path spanning the country.
The route dates back to the 16th century, but fell out of use decades ago. Its restoration has taken four years. Winding through forests and over mountain passes, it opens up areas far from Bhutan’s main tourist sites and offers daily opportunities to meet local people.
Bhutan has pursued a deliberately slow and careful path to development, famously emphasising “Gross National Happiness” over Gross Domestic Product. The country’s first motorable road wasn’t built until the 1960s, so memories of long, “gruelling” journeys on ancestral paths such as the Trans-Bhutan Trail are still common, and hearing people’s stories of them is part of the pleasure of walking it.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The path is often very steep, and offers spectacular views of snowy Himalayan peaks, but for the most part it crosses lower, more populated areas than the country’s well-trodden high-mountain trekking routes. Scattered along it are 21 Buddhist temples and four fortified monasteries (dzongs), as well as countless stupas and prayer wheels.
The trail runs from the town of Haa, in the west, to Trashigang, in the east, and passes through 27 villages, with traditional wooden houses set amid high, green pastures. Nights are spent in small hotels, farms or campsites, and there are 170 wooden posts bearing QR codes along the way, enabling walkers to access information on local history and culture.
Visit transbhutantrail.com and tourism.gov.bt for more information. Private operators also offer trips along the whole route or sections of it.
-
7 sweet experiences for chocolate loversThe Week Recommends Treat yourself with chocolate experiences, both internal and external
-
Scientists have developed a broad-spectrum snake bite antivenomUnder the radar It works on some of the most dangerous species
-
Codeword: November 5, 2025The Week's daily codeword puzzle
-
The dazzling coral gardens of Raja AmpatThe Week Recommends Region of Indonesia is home to perhaps the planet’s most photogenic archipelago
-
Salted caramel and chocolate tart recipeThe Week Recommends Delicious dessert can be made with any biscuits you fancy
-
6 trailside homes for hikersFeature Featuring a roof deck with skyline views in California and a home with access to private trails in Montana
-
Lazarus: Harlan Coben’s ‘embarrassingly compelling’ thrillerThe Week Recommends Bill Nighy and Sam Claflin play father-and-son psychiatrists in this ‘precision-engineered’ crime drama
-
The Rose Field: a ‘nail-biting’ end to The Book of Dust seriesThe Week Recommends Philip Pullman’s superb new novel brings the trilogy to a ‘fitting’ conclusion
-
Nigerian Modernism: an ‘entrancing, enlightening exhibition’The Week Recommends Tate Modern’s ‘revelatory’ show includes 250 works examining Nigerian art pre- and post independence
-
The Mastermind: Josh O’Connor stars in unconventional art heist movieThe Week Recommends Kelly Reichardt cements her status as the ‘queen of slow cinema’ with her latest film
-
Critics’ choice: Watering holes for gourmandsFeature An endless selection of Mexican spirits, a Dublin-inspired bar, and an upscale Baltimore pub
