Rail travel: 16 of the world’s best train journeys
Get on track and book a great railway adventure
- 1. Rocky Mountaineer: a train ride through the Wild West
- 2. Orient Express: retracing the original route from Paris to Istanbul
- 3. Ella Odyssey: spectacular journey through Sri Lanka’s tea country
- 4. Arctic Rail Odyssey: ‘epically scenic’
- 5. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway: Xining to Lhasa
- 6. Laos-China railway: Vientiane to Boten
- 7. Rovos Rail: African exploration on ‘the world’s most luxurious train’
- 8. Royal Scotsman: a Belmond train for ‘lovers of luxury’
- 9. Seven Stars Kyushu: a luxury cruise train in Japan
- 10. The Ghan, Australia: Adelaide to Darwin via Alice Springs
- 11. The Canadian: Toronto to Vancouver
- 12. The TranzAlpine, New Zealand: Christchurch to Greymouth
- 13. Caledonian Sleeper: London to Scotland
- 14. California Zephyr: Chicago to San Francisco
- 15. Andean Explorer: slow travel through Peru
- 16. Austria: St Pölten to Mariazell
1. Rocky Mountaineer: a train ride through the Wild West
There can be few more relaxing ways to see the glorious landscapes of Utah and Colorado than from the Rocky Mountaineer, said Ed Grenby in The Daily Telegraph. After three decades of service in Canada, this “gleaming” royal-blue train recently began its second-ever season in the US, offering two-day, 356-mile journeys between Moab and Denver, with a night at a hotel in Glenwood, a town known for its hot springs and “raffish frontier feel”.
Carriages are largely encased in glass, and seats can be turned to face forwards, making it easy to drink in the “epic” vistas, including “scale-defying” deserts, sunlit prairies and the “towering” canyons of the Colorado River. The pace is often slow, so you can get a good look at passing wildlife, including coyote and bald eagles. The trip costs from £1,270pp, full board.
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2. Orient Express: retracing the original route from Paris to Istanbul
Launched in 1883 by a Belgian entrepreneur named George Nagelmackers, the Orient Express service from Paris to Istanbul reached peak popularity in the 1930s, before dying a slow death. Today, Belmond runs an occasional luxury service on the same route, and Accor is due to launch another in 2025. But there are more affordable ways to make this “nostalgia-laden” journey if you’re willing to change trains a few times, says Monisha Rajesh in the FT. Indeed, doing so is arguably an authentic choice – until 1889, the original service involved several changes; and the experience is enriched by stopping in cities along the way.
I opted for Vienna, Bucharest and Sofia, and rounded off my trip with a stay at Nagelmackers’ own Pera Palace Hotel in Istanbul, which counts Greta Garbo and Agatha Christie among its past guests. Still, the greatest delight remains the journey itself. You pass through magnificent landscapes, but equally “romantic” is the experience of gliding through cities at night, “watching curtains being drawn, hair being brushed loose, late dinners being eaten, and holding the gaze of smokers in the dark”.
See seat61.com for useful information
3. Ella Odyssey: spectacular journey through Sri Lanka’s tea country
Climbing across the “wet, misty” mountains between Sri Lanka’s coastal capital, Colombo, and the highland city of Badulla, the Main Line is one of the world’s most spectacular railways. Now you can ride it on the Ella Odyssey, says Adrian Bridge in The Daily Telegraph – a new “tourist-friendly” service that offers “an upgraded level of comfort” and longer stops at ten of the best viewpoints along the way. Built in stages under British rule between 1858 and 1924, the line passes through forests and tea plantations, navigating steep ascents and edging around deep gorges where waterfalls plunge over “craggy” cliffs.
It’s a journey “redolent of another age”, owing to the “astonishing beauty” of the landscape, the “wonderful” sounds of the train, the “beautifully maintained” stations, and the “dainty white-bread sandwiches” served with tea in the buffet car. The seats are “smart and upholstered” even in third class, staff are plentiful and “unfailingly friendly”, and there are usually lots of chatty locals among the passengers, making for a wonderful sense of “camaraderie”.
seatreservation.railway.gov.lk
4. Arctic Rail Odyssey: ‘epically scenic’
The rail journey from London to the frozen wastes of northern Scandinavia is about the same length as that to Istanbul, and it is charged with a similar spirit of adventure. You can do it both ways in three weeks with Discover the World’s new Arctic Rail Odyssey, says Emma Thomson in Wanderlust, stopping in cities along the way including Cologne, Copenhagen, Gothenburg and Oslo on the journey out, and in Stockholm and Hamburg on the way back. The scenery is at its most spectacular on the final northwards leg, from the Norwegian port of Trondheim, across the Arctic Circle, to Bodø.
Villages huddle around rocky bays with “frostbitten piers”, pine forests peek through blankets of snow “as smooth as satin”, and sharkstooth mountains savage the sky in the “epically scenic” Lofoten Islands. Next come Kiruna and Boden in Sweden, where the activities on offer include snowmobiling, ice fishing and husky sledding, and you can stay at the “iconic” Icehotel, the Treehotel and the Arctic Bath (all of which are true to their names). Go in early spring or autumn for the northern lights, and in summer for the midnight sun. The trip costs from £4,120pp.
5. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway: Xining to Lhasa
Few train journeys can “literally take your breath away”, but as the Qinghai-Tibet railway peaks at more than 5,000m above sea level, “most passengers will experience some altitude sickness on this extraordinary ride”, said Condé Nast Traveller. The route connects Xining in mainland China to Lhasa in Tibet and features the “highest railway in the world”. It runs through territory “so treacherous” that it was deemed an “engineering impossibility”.
Passing some of the most stunning high mountains, this is definitely the “roof of the world”, said Nellie Huang on Lonely Planet. For centuries, Tibet was “cut off from the outside world by its remote location, extreme climate and geographic environment”. That was until the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway in 2006, which connected Tibet to the rest of China.
6. Laos-China railway: Vientiane to Boten
With its unspoilt countryside and glorious old Buddhist temples, Laos has a quiet charm that sets it apart from its busier neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam. And this is a great time to visit, says Mark Stratton in The Times, with the opening of the Laos-China railway. This 262-mile, Chinese-funded route cuts across the country from its capital, Vientiane, to Boten, on the Chinese border.
It promises to be an economic “game-changer” for Laos; and it makes the overland journey from Vientiane to the “petite” city of Luang Prabang (the country’s “only real tourism hotspot”) far easier. By bus, it took ten hours; now you can get there by train in a little more than two. Tickets are not available online, and are often sold out at the stations, so consider going with a tour operator, like InsideAsia Tours, that guarantees them.
Life onboard the train feels faintly “Orwellian”, with regular announcements instructing you to report “antisocial activities”. But the ride is “captivatingly scenic”, past rice paddies harrowed by buffaloes bearing wooden yokes, and “denticulated” limestone peaks that emerge from misty forests.
7. Rovos Rail: African exploration on ‘the world’s most luxurious train’
Founded in 1989, South Africa-based Rovos Rail offers a range of bespoke luxury train journeys, including a spectacular 14-night “African trilogy”, nine-night golf safari and a 15-night “trail of two oceans” east-west African adventure.
Beautifully rebuilt trains carry a maximum of 72 passengers in 36 appointed suites and are also available for charter. The style is traditional, with teak-panelled suites, Victorian-style dining and a superb wine list highlighting South African wines. In the spirit of a bygone era of travel, there are no radios or TVs, and internet use is confined to travellers’ suites.
Regarded as “the world’s most luxurious train”, it feels like “a hotel on wheels”, said The Luxury Travel Expert, who journeyed on the popular three-day, 1,000-mile trip from Pretoria to Cape Town across the Karoo’s “endless desert landscapes” and the Western Cape’s “verdant valleys”. With “discreet and friendly service”, five-star cuisine and a selection of South Africa’s finest wines, Rovos Rail “harks back to a simpler, more elegant era encompassing the timeless grace and high romance of African exploration”.
8. Royal Scotsman: a Belmond train for ‘lovers of luxury’
Offering a range of journeys, Belmond’s Royal Scotsman train is perfect for travellers who want to enjoy the splendours of Scotland’s scenery. Journeys include the taste of the Highlands (two nights); a Scotch malt whisky tour (four nights); and clans, castles and isles (five nights).
The Royal Scotsman promises world-class dining, together with Scottish specialities, and the decor is traditional and elegant. Why not settle down in the observation car and enjoy the glens and castles as they glide by? This year Belmond announced a partnership with Dior for the Dior Spa Royal Scotsman, a “unique spa on rails”.
Writing on The Luxury Train Club, James MacPherson Ferguson of Yorba Linda Travel said the “life/bucket list” journey on the Royal Scotsman was, without question, “beyond the brochure”. This is an “enriching” experience for “all lovers of luxury travel to partake”.
9. Seven Stars Kyushu: a luxury cruise train in Japan
The Seven Stars luxury sleeper service across the island of Kyushu in Japan is such a favourite with travellers that you must apply to book a journey. The island, on Japan’s southern tip, offers gorgeous scenery and a wealth of hot springs that are nurtured by the area’s volcanoes.
Carriages are beautifully furnished in a fusion of western and Japanese design. Attention to detail in the design and furnishing of each guest room is unsurpassed. There are three routes available: the Kirishima Journey (three nights, four days); the Unzen Journey (three nights, four days); and the Kyushu Tour Journey (one night, two days).
This cruise train is “meant to bring new life to train travel” and to “make the travel itself the integral part of a Kyushu vacation”, said the Japan Rail Pass blog. Plush, classic décor “harkens back to bygone days”, while the technological advancements and large, picturesque viewing windows “push the comfort of travel by train to new heights”.
10. The Ghan, Australia: Adelaide to Darwin via Alice Springs
The Ghan will take you on a luxurious journey to the heart of the antipodean bush in Australia. It takes 48 hours – and three nights – to travel the nearly 2,000 miles across Australia from Adelaide to Darwin. The train stops at Alice Springs, where you can take a tour by helicopter. Then return to your spacious cabin – a private lounge with deluxe seating, a table and two ottomans.
The all-inclusive fare includes gourmet meals, prepared and served in the traditionally styled Queen Adelaide restaurant car. Chefs work with local suppliers to source the best regional ingredients. Complement your meal with fine Australian wines.
Crossing Australia on The Ghan is a trip “full of laid-back luxury and endless surprises”, said Carolyne Jasinski on Escape.com.au. The itinerary is “full-on”, so “brace yourself for a busy few days”. Guests can enjoy a mix of “sitting and watching the world go by, then getting out to explore it all”.
11. The Canadian: Toronto to Vancouver
Covering almost 2,800 miles over four days and four nights, Via Rail’s cross-country journey is epic in proportion. The Canadian glides through the countryside, taking in stops at Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Edmonton and the Rocky Mountain town of Jasper, as well as many smaller communities. The service runs throughout the year, offering the chance to see the deep, snowy winter or the lush greenery of Canada’s summer.
Tickets on The Canadian range from economy and sleeper plus to prestige class. The most comfortable – and expensive – option is the first-class prestige ticket, which gives you a private cabin with a bed for two, private washroom with shower, and an in-cabin flat-screen monitor with video selection.
The Skyline (dome) cars offer panoramic top-floor views with windows extended to the ceiling and on-board activities in peak season include wine tasting.
12. The TranzAlpine, New Zealand: Christchurch to Greymouth
On New Zealand’s South Island, the 140-mile journey from Christchurch to Greymouth offers some of the country’s most beautiful countryside and takes just under five hours. Facilities include the Scenic Cafe, open-air viewing carriage, and scenic class carriages.
Stops along the way include New Zealand’s highest settlement, the stunning Arthur’s Pass, nestled at 740m above sea level in acres of national parklands. The train meanders through the country’s Alpine region, clinging to rivers, crossing viaducts and passing through lush sub-tropical forests.
The TranzAlpine emerges from its mountainous journey in Greymouth, on New Zealand’s rugged western Tasman Sea coast. Stay an hour and catch the train back to Christchurch, or book overnight in Greymouth and explore the former mining town. One-way fares start from NZ$189 (£95).
13. Caledonian Sleeper: London to Scotland
“Good morning ladies and gentlemen, we will shortly be arriving at Edinburgh Waverley train station.” It’s a bit of a surreal thing to hear in the early AM, especially when you nodded off in England, but that’s exactly what happens when you take the Caledonian Sleeper to Scotland’s capital city, said Mike Starling on TheWeek.co.uk. Departing London Euston at 11.30pm on a Sunday night, eight hours later we’re rolling into Waverley, the station located right in the heart of Edinburgh.
With air travel more problematic and guilt-inducing than enjoyable these days, the thought of taking the night train to Scotland somewhat intrigued me. As did the idea of waking up north of the border and then strolling into the centre of one of the world’s great cities. Is the Sleeper train the best way to travel between the two capitals? For me, it’s a resounding yes.
The northbound “Lowlander” route from London Euston goes to Glasgow Central as well as Edinburgh Waverley. The northbound “Highlander” route runs from London Euston and splits into three services to Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen. From London, the Lowlander sets off as one train and stops at Watford Junction and Carlisle. It then splits into two trains at Carstairs before carrying on to Glasgow and Edinburgh.
14. California Zephyr: Chicago to San Francisco
A trip aboard the California Zephyr from Chicago to San Francisco will tell you a lot about American culture, says Anthony Sattin in Condé Nast Traveller. At 2,438 miles, and taking 51 hours, it’s also one of the longest rides in the US. “Plenty long enough for me.” It leaves at 2pm on the dot. “In the evening the Zephyr passes through the Midwest Corn Belt and crosses the Missouri River into Nebraska, and by morning the world has changed again: snow-dusted mountains crowd the horizon.” At Denver, the guard recommends that “folks de-train” to see the station. The most beautiful part of the journey, however, lies between Denver and Salt Lake City.
There, the train climbs into the mountains, “twists along rivers, cuts through sheer canyons and roars through the six-mile Moffat Tunnel”. When the lights of San Francisco, and the Pacific beyond it, finally hove into view, a plane cut across the sky, reminding Sattin that he could have flown the distance in a fraction of the time. The train, though, is better.
15. Andean Explorer: slow travel through Peru
Lake Titicaca in Peru is best reached from the old Inca capital of Cuzco aboard Belmond’s luxury Andean Explorer, says Hugh Thompson in Spear’s. Leaving late in the morning, it climbs to the heights of the La Raya pass. “It harks back to a distant age of luxury train travel, sipping pisco sours in the open observatory car as we travelled through what is still a very rural part of Peru… alpaca were grazing in the fields and the maize stubble was being burnt after the harvest.”
The next day you arrive at Lake Titicaca – “a spectacular sight” at dawn, when the “quality of light over the vast expanse of high altitude water” and the low clouds passing through the stratosphere make for a wonderful sunrise. “Passengers line the quayside to watch, helped by strong cappuccinos, as the long, lean islands on the lake were silhouetted against the rising sun like emerging black submarines.
16. Austria: St Pölten to Mariazell
The journey from St Pölten to Mariazell in Austria is more than 78km long and lasts two and a half hours, says Wanderlust. This narrow-gauge service is officially split into two sections – valleys and mountains – and crosses one of the wildest regions of the Austrian Alps.
The valleys section stretches from St Pölten to Frankenfels, a land of “pretty grazing meadows and gentle pathways (tickets allow you to hop on and off)”, while the mountains section “climbs up through the ruggedly handsome Erlauf gorge and the peaks of Ötscher-Tormäuer Naturpark”.
Grab a first-class panorama carriage for widescreen views along the way from May to October. Heritage rail fans will love the 100-year-old Otscherbår train that runs from June to late September.
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