Caledonian Sleeper review: taking the slow train to Scotland

“Good morning ladies and gentlemen, we will shortly be arriving at Edinburgh Waverley train station.” It’s a bit of a surreal thing to hear in the early AM, especially when you nodded off in England, but that’s exactly what happens when you take the Caledonian Sleeper to Scotland. Eight hours after departing on a Sunday at 11.30pm from London Euston, I’m rolling into Edinburgh Waverley – the station located right in the heart of the city.

With air travel more problematic and guilt-inducing than enjoyable these days, the thought of taking the night train to Scotland somewhat intrigued me. As did the idea of waking up north of the border and then strolling into the centre of one of the world’s great cities. Is the Sleeper train the best way to travel between the two capitals? For me, it’s a resounding yes.

The room

The reason why it’s a big yes is that I was surprisingly fresh after sleeping for most of the eight-hour northbound journey. The bed in the solo Club room was comfortable and – despite a bit of “train sway” – I fell asleep not long after departure. At around 2.30am I did wake briefly, but quickly returned to the land of nod. In the morning I actually set an alarm for 6am so I could watch the journey’s remaining hour and a bit from the comfort of my private room. Seeing Scotland roll by was magical.

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The room was very clean, with plenty of floor space for my two bags. I was welcomed by a sleeper pack which contained bottles of water, an eye mask, ear plugs, and a bar of milk chocolate from Mackie’s of Scotland. ARRAN toiletries and fresh towels were also included, as there was an en suite shower room and toilet. In terms of tech, there were a number of plug sockets and USB points for charging my laptop and phone.

As well as the Club room (twin bunk beds, en suite with toilet and shower), passengers can also book a Caledonian Double room (double bed and en suite with shower), the Classic room (twin bunk beds with in-room washbasin), or a Comfort seat.

Eating and drinking

On the journey from London to Edinburgh the water and chocolate bar kept me going until the morning. Then, at around 6.45am, a complimentary breakfast was delivered to my door. The coffee, orange juice and Lorne “square” sausage roll was a great pick-me-up ahead of a busy day exploring Scotland’s capital.

As well as breakfast and room service menus, travellers staying in a Club room or Caledonian Double receive priority access to the Club Car. Here you can order food from the Lowlander Club Car Menu which features Scottish dishes such as mini sausages and haggis tweeds (starters); McSween’s haggis, neeps and tatties (main); and Scottish cheeseboard or Clootie McToot’s dumpling (dessert). There’s also a selection of sandwiches, savoury snacks, hot and cold drinks, and also an extensive wine and whisky list. It’s a lovely introduction to the taste of Scotland.

The route and times

Running six days a week, the northbound “Lowlander” route from London Euston goes to Glasgow Central as well as Edinburgh Waverley. The northbound “Highlander” route runs from London Euston and splits into three services to Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen.

From London, the Lowlander sets off as one train and stops at Watford Junction and Carlisle. It then splits into two trains at Carstairs before carrying on to Glasgow and Edinburgh.

For the current timetable, running until 12 December 2022, the departure from Euston is at 11.50pm (Monday to Friday) and 11.30pm on Sundays. Rooms are available from 10.30pm at Euston. From Edinburgh, the departure is at 11.40pm (Monday to Friday) and at 11.15pm on Sunday. Rooms are available in Edinburgh at 11pm (Monday to Friday) and 10.30pm on Sunday.

The verdict

For those of you who are wondering whether the Caledonian Sleeper resembles an episode of Poirot, it’s worth noting that my train journey was a bit more modern and functional than what the Belgian detective would have experienced. The comfortable bed, en suite facilities, food and drink options and plenty of charging points meant I was ready to explore Edinburgh straight after arriving at Waverley. If you are travelling for business or leisure, it’s certainly a great option.

Everyone should visit Edinburgh – it’s one of Europe’s finest cities. Flying there may take less time, but falling asleep in England and waking up in Scotland does have a certain charm. For me, taking the Sleeper was by far the best way to travel between these two great capitals.

For timetables and ticket information see sleeper.scot