Alligators and sugar-white sands in Alabama
Gulf Shores has so many quiet bays you could find you have a beach ‘all to yourself’

America’s 22nd state is associated with its rural backwaters, says James March in The Mail on Sunday. In fact, it is sometimes described as the most “redneck” of the southern states. But first-time visitors may be pleasantly surprised by Alabama. It is dotted with attractions, including, as you might expect, some significant landmarks of the Civil Rights Movement; but I for one didn’t even know that it has a coastline – a “lovely” one, with “sugar-white sands and crystalline waters”.
The corner known as Gulf Shores makes for superlative beach-hopping. As I arrived, pelicans flew overhead in “neat V formations” towards “empty golden beaches” that stretched far into the distance. There are so many quiet bays in the area that you could find you have your beach “all to yourself”.
The Lodge At Gulf State Park makes for a good base; although it’s a Hilton, it has a “laid-back atmosphere” that makes it feel like an unusually “opulent beach shack”. Directly behind the hotel lies Gulf State Park, “a world of meandering trails” and lakes that is superb for birdwatching. On my (guided) stroll, I spotted flame-red cardinals and high-hanging turkey vultures. A waterpark nearby is good for families seeking to beat the heat; and for food, head to Orange Beach for its excellent seafood. Coastal restaurant is “the place to go”: just about every evening, its patio is “bathed in the milky orange glow of a Gulf sunset”, and its “creamy grouper-fish sandwich is deliriously succulent”.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
About an hour’s drive north, you can do a kayak tour of the Five Rivers Delta, an evocative tangle of “lazy river bayous” sometimes called “America’s Amazon”. As you paddle downstream, you may notice the “dead eyes and green snout” of an alligator. For an “alluring diversion”, you could cross state borders and drive three hours to New Orleans; but you might find that Alabama’s “empty beaches, seductive southern rock, otherworldly nature and an endless sun” are all you need.
Sign up for The Week’s Travel newsletter for destination inspiration and the latest news and trends.
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Ozzy Osbourne obituary: heavy metal wildman and lovable reality TV dad
In the Spotlight For Osbourne, metal was 'not the music of hell but rather the music of Earth, not a fantasy but a survival guide'
-
Crossword: August 2, 2025
The Week's daily crossword puzzle
-
Sudoku medium: August 2, 2025
The Week's daily medium sudoku puzzle
-
Ozzy Osbourne obituary: heavy metal wildman and lovable reality TV dad
In the Spotlight For Osbourne, metal was 'not the music of hell but rather the music of Earth, not a fantasy but a survival guide'
-
Spring greens and chickpea curry recipe
The Week Recommends This mouthwatering curry is quick to throw together
-
Gazer: 'paranoid noir chiller' is a gripping watch
The Week Recommends Ryan J. Sloan's debut film is haunted with 'skin-crawling unease'
-
William Kentridge: The Pull of Gravity – a 'bold' exhibition
The Week Recommends The South African artist brings his distinctive works to Yorkshire Sculpture Park
-
Sarah Dunant shares her favourite books
The Week Recommends The British novelist picks works by Sergeanne Golon, Jill Burke and Natalie Zemon
-
Inter Alia: Rosamund Pike is 'electric' in gut-wrenching legal drama
The Week Recommends Australian playwright Suzie Miller is back with a follow up to her critically-acclaimed hit play Prima Facie
-
Unforgivable: harrowing drama about abuse and rehabilitation
The Week Recommends 'Catastrophic impact' of abuse is explored in 'thought-provoking' series
-
The Bad Guys 2: 'kids will lap up' crime caper sequel starring Sam Rockwell and Awkwafina
The Week Recommends 'Wittier and more energetic', this film 'wipes the floor' with the original