Hawksmoor review: a Sunday roast that's very hard to beat

Pimp your lunch with 'Sunday feasting' and a stuffing that's genuinely the stuff of dreams

Air Street is one of several Hawksmoor restaurants in London
Air Street is one of several Hawksmoor restaurants in London
(Image credit: Hawksmoor)

Since it first opened in 2006 I've had many great meals at Hawksmoor. I've also had a couple of not-so-good ones too – hey, sometimes you just get a piece of ribeye that's mostly fat and gristle – but, in those instances, resolution has been swift and satisfactory. For the most part though, it is hugely dependable. I have very fond memories of the breakfast it used to do at the Bank, good memories of some very fine bits of steak at several of its venues and hazy memories of nights spent on Shaky Pete's Ginger Brew. Ahem. 

Certain things have always stood out, however. The friendliness and efficiency and knowledge of the staff. The quality of the drinks programme. The impressive conversion of old buildings into smart, stylish restaurant spaces. The excellent sides – I'd like to shake the hand of whoever decided to mix Tunworth cheese with mash potato. And the Sunday lunch was always a safe choice: good value, generous, tasty. Admittedly it's also one of those classic value lunches that start as a £20 or so bargain and end up costing about four times that because, well, if we're saving that much money on the meal, we might as well have that bottle of wine, right? And a cocktail. Oh, and that pudding. And maybe a couple of the Rolo-tributes… Restaurant maths. The reason for overdrafts. 

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