Albania: a journey along the wild Vjosa River
Raft, hike or bike along this stretch of some of Albania's most scenic landscapes

Rising in the Pindus mountains of Greece, but flowing for much of its 169-mile length through southern Albania to the Adriatic Sea, the Vjosa is said to be the last truly wild European river west of Russia. It has never been dammed, canalised or redirected, says Alex Crevar in The New York Times – and six months ago, after years of campaigning for its protection, it was finally granted national park status in Albania, along with several of its tributaries. Travelling along it takes you through a landscape of sometimes breathtaking beauty, where vineyards, orchards and olive groves "intermingle" with meadows of wildflowers, amid towering mountains cloaked in forests of oak, ash and pine. Ancient bridges span the river's "turquoise" waters, and here and there it rushes through gorges and box canyons where the rafting is superb.
Spanning a bend in the river 20 miles from the Greek border, the little town of Përmet is an "adventure hub" from which you might set out on such rafting expeditions, as well as on guided riding, cycling and hiking trips. Nearby lies Ferma Albanik, a pleasant guesthouse with a restaurant supplied by local family-run farms. Albania is "renowned" for its food, and the Vjosa Valley "sets the bar even higher", with wonderful fruits and vegetables, river fish, mountain honey, cheese, wine and more. Within easy reach of the guesthouse is the Lengarica Canyon, where there are several hot spring pools beside an Ottoman-era bridge.
Perched beside the Drinos River – one of the Vjosa's protected tributaries – is the beautiful old town of Gjirokastra, from which you might follow Albania's new Unesco Cycling Route to the Vjosa Delta and the Adriatic. Along the way are fine historic sites, including the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Antigonea. The delta itself is "heaven for birders", although it is not part of the national park, and is currently threatened by a new airport development.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Sign up for The Week’s Travel newsletter for destination inspiration and the latest news and trends.
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Deaf Republic: ‘an experimental epic of war and resistance’
The Week Recommends Ukrainian-American writer Ilya Kaminsky’s poetry collection is brought to the stage in this ‘enthralling’ production
-
The Week US subscriptions FAQ
How to manage your subscription, get digital access, enquire about delivery problems and renew gift subscriptions
-
10 upcoming albums to stream during spooky season
The Week Recommends As fall arrives, check out new albums from Taylor Swift, Jeff Tweedy, the Lemonheads and more
-
Art review: Lorna Simpson: Source Notes
Feature Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, through Nov. 2
-
Jessica Francis Kane's 6 favorite books that prove less is more
Feature The author recommends works by Penelope Fitzgerald, Marie-Helene Bertino, and more
-
Book reviews: 'Baldwin: A Love Story' and 'The Fort Bragg Cartel: Drug Trafficking and Murder in the Special Forces'
Feature A loving James Baldwin biography and the drug crimes of two special ops veterans
-
Rigatoni with 'no-vodka sauce' recipe
The Week Recommends Comfort food meets a clever alcohol-free twist on a classic
-
6 blooming homes for gardeners
Feature Featuring a greenhouse in Illinois and 13 raised garden beds in New Mexico
-
The Roses: Olivia Colman and Benedict Cumberbatch star in black comedy reboot
The Week Recommends 'Acidly enjoyable' remake of the 1980s classic features a warring couple and toxic love
-
Film reviews: The Roses, Splitsville, and Twinless
Feature A happy union devolves into domestic warfare, a couple's open marriage reaps chaos, and an unlikely friendship takes surprising turns
-
Music reviews: Laufey, Deftones, and Earl Sweatshirt
Feature "A Matter of Time," "Private Music," and "Live Laugh Love"