Albania: a journey along the wild Vjosa River
Raft, hike or bike along this stretch of some of Albania's most scenic landscapes

Rising in the Pindus mountains of Greece, but flowing for much of its 169-mile length through southern Albania to the Adriatic Sea, the Vjosa is said to be the last truly wild European river west of Russia. It has never been dammed, canalised or redirected, says Alex Crevar in The New York Times – and six months ago, after years of campaigning for its protection, it was finally granted national park status in Albania, along with several of its tributaries. Travelling along it takes you through a landscape of sometimes breathtaking beauty, where vineyards, orchards and olive groves "intermingle" with meadows of wildflowers, amid towering mountains cloaked in forests of oak, ash and pine. Ancient bridges span the river's "turquoise" waters, and here and there it rushes through gorges and box canyons where the rafting is superb.
Spanning a bend in the river 20 miles from the Greek border, the little town of Përmet is an "adventure hub" from which you might set out on such rafting expeditions, as well as on guided riding, cycling and hiking trips. Nearby lies Ferma Albanik, a pleasant guesthouse with a restaurant supplied by local family-run farms. Albania is "renowned" for its food, and the Vjosa Valley "sets the bar even higher", with wonderful fruits and vegetables, river fish, mountain honey, cheese, wine and more. Within easy reach of the guesthouse is the Lengarica Canyon, where there are several hot spring pools beside an Ottoman-era bridge.
Perched beside the Drinos River – one of the Vjosa's protected tributaries – is the beautiful old town of Gjirokastra, from which you might follow Albania's new Unesco Cycling Route to the Vjosa Delta and the Adriatic. Along the way are fine historic sites, including the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Antigonea. The delta itself is "heaven for birders", although it is not part of the national park, and is currently threatened by a new airport development.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Sign up for The Week’s Travel newsletter for destination inspiration and the latest news and trends.
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Democrats: The 2028 race has begun
Feature Democratic primaries have already kicked off in South Carolina
-
The Pentagon's missing missiles
Feature The U.S. military is low on weapons. Can it restock before a major conflict breaks out?
-
Rescissions: Trump's push to control federal spending
Feature The GOP passed a bill to reduce funding for PBS, NPR and other public media stations
-
The Coldplay kiss cam affair: a cautionary tale
In the Spotlight The pair became 'the most googled people on the planet' after getting caught having an affair at a Coldplay concert
-
Connie Francis: superstar of the early 1960s pop scene
In the Spotlight The 'Pretty Little Baby' and 'Stupid Cupid' singer has died aged 87
-
Friendship: 'bromance' comedy starring Paul Rudd and Tim Robinson
The Week Recommends 'Lampooning and embracing' middle-aged male loneliness, this film is 'enjoyable and funny'
-
6 head-turning homes for town house living
Feature Featuring a roof deck with city views in South Carolina and a renovated Harlem brownstone in New York City
-
Bookish: delightful period detective drama from Mark Gatiss
The Week Recommends 'Cosy crime' series is a 'standout pleasure' in an Agatha Christie-style formula
-
Music Reviews: Justin Bieber, Wet Leg, and Clipse
Feature "Swag," "Moisturizer," and "Let God Sort Em Out"
-
Film reviews: Eddington and Don't Let's Go to the Dogs Tonight
Feature A New Mexico border town goes berserk and civil war through a child's eyes
-
Art Review: Hilma af Klint's What Stands Behind the Flowers
Feature Museum of Modern Art, New York City, through Sept. 27