Cary Arms & Spa: a secluded coastal retreat in South Devon

The phrase 'tucked away' doesn't quite do justice to the location of the Cary Arms & Spa in Devon. Perched in an enviable spot overlooking Babbacombe Bay, just east of Torquay, first, you have to find it. Directions are courtesy of an easily missable sign indicating the turn-off from Torquay's main strip and then it's down a perilous, near-vertical road. But it's worth it. Even if you're gripping the steering wheel in fear, the views that open up before you are spectacular – an almost perfect-shaped horseshoe bay of shimmering turquoise water framed by striking red rocks. Panoramic views take in Teignmouth, Exmouth, Sidmouth and Portland Bill.

Why stay here?

Although secluded, Babbacombe Bay has a rich history and hasn't escaped the notice of the more discerning vacationer. Part of the so-called English Riviera, Queen Victoria was known to be an admirer of the area. She wrote in 1846: "It's a beautiful spot... red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like Italy and reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs appear – such rocks and grottoes, with the deepest sea on which there was no ripple."

The Cary Arms 'inn on the beach' maintains all the charm of a classic English retreat but with all the modern-day comforts and luxury of a five-star hotel. Spread out over much of the bay, it includes six beach huts, two beach suites with balconies and direct beach access, and nine self-catering cliffside seaview cottages with period features.

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We stayed in Foxes Walk Cottage, which can host eight adult guests. The decor is on-point coastal, with a bright and breezy feel and (much-needed) turntable parking.

It boasts a cosy sitting room with traditional fire and games room for off-season visits and a large private terrace with hot tub and BBQ facilities for sunshine stays. The spacious kitchen comes with top-end brands (Smeg, Nespresso etc) and complimentary essentials, including bread, milk and snacks, and a decanter of sloe gin. Curiously, all the clocks throughout the property are set at different times – all wrong – whether or not on purpose is difficult to tell.

Eating and drinking

One of the delights of the hotel is the many nooks, crannies and hideaways to discover, but for lunch – excellently cooked pub grub staples fish and chips and burgers – we headed to the expansive terrace at the front overlooking the bay. It has several good spots for a drink and a special outdoor dining table perched high above the water, available to book in advance. There's also a bell to ring if you happen to spot dolphins.

For dinner, we enjoyed two exquisite whisky sours overlooking the bay, before heading inside for local mussels and scallops – Brixham is just down the coast. One of the very few disappointments of the stay was that the catch-of-the-day was not local, but we were somewhat assuaged by a glorious apple tart tartine with cinnamon ice cream for pudding. Afterwards, we relaxed in the beautiful saloon bar replete with nautical oddities and of course – great views.

Breakfast featured hearty classics such as kippers, bubble and squeak and generous full monty Devon breakfasts all served on blue and white chequered tablecloths. The service throughout our stay was faultless and friendly.

Things to do

The spa is on the small side but beautifully situated at the top of the hotel overlooking the sea, its glass panels offering spectacular views. There is a sauna, steam room and sensory shower – not much else – but the sauna is hot and the views are great, it does the trick. The award-winning Temple Spa treatments – massages, facials, detox – using Gaia products are excellent.

There is much to do in the local area that is home to old-school attractions like Babbacombe Model Village, Paignton Zoo, Dartmouth Steam Railway and Kents Cavern to name but a few, but it is hard to peel yourself away from the coast. And with the South West Coast Path so easily accessible, what's the point? The short, dandelion-dotted pathway that clings to the coast round to Oddicombe Bay is delightful and quite manageable. At Oddicombe Bay there is a cafe, shop and the charming Babbacombe Cliff Lift, a funicular railway that connects the bay to the town.

For those who crave a little more action, there are watersport options – fishing and SUP paddleboarding – guided walks with a resident guide, and biking, golfing and horse-riding trips available to book from the hotel.

The verdict

The location is hard to surpass – it really does feel hidden, off the beaten path in the best possible way. And you don't have to wait til summertime to enjoy. The hotel would make a snug retreat in the winter months and in spring, with birdsong in the trees behind you and the bay beckoning to the front, it truly is glorious to be beside the seaside.

Felicity was a guest at the Cary Arms & Spa, caryarms.co.uk