Bovey Castle review: a truly beautiful stay in Dartmoor National Park

Originally opened in 1930 by Great Western Railways as a hotel and golf resort, Bovey Castle – or Bovey Castle Hotel and Spa to give its full name – is a genuinely impressive site. Those railway people knew what they were doing frankly as, it must be said, do current owners the Eden Hotel Collection which has continued to evolve and develop the site, and its beautiful 275 acres of grounds, to a fine standard.

Whether you’re seeking to unleash your inner Crawley and make believe you’re in Downton Abbey, seeking a relaxed luxurious break or want to play golf in the morning and then, say, handle a bird of prey in the afternoon, this is the place for you.

Why come here?

Bovey Castle is beautiful. The grounds are beautiful. The surrounding countryside is beautiful – well, when your address is “Dartmoor National Park” that’s possibly a given. Even so, as you meander along the entrance road, and approach the house, it’s hard not to catch your breath: it feels like you’re entering the past or, at least, a C.S. Lewis novel or the set of any number of Merchant Ivory films.

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As you park up, friendly staff appear to guide you to a spot, help with your bags and get you checked in. If you’re staying in the main house, you’ll appreciate the guidance to your room as there are assorted staircases and corridors to negotiate. It’s an easy place to get lost in. During dinner on the first night, I took a wrong turn on my way back from the toilet. It wasn’t all bad news though, turns out I was a generous and benign king of Narnia…

Offering a “countryside escape like no other”, guests can “soak up moorland views” at Bovey Castle, said Good Housekeeping Holidays. The resort becomes “your own private sanctuary” and offers a “truly unique stay” in the heart of rural Devon.

Rooms and lodges

The rooms are rather lovely: spacious, elegant, lovely views, nicely appointed from TV with easy-to-work casting abilities (which should be standard in hotels in these days of streaming and binge-watching) to the decanter for an in-room impromptu aperitif. Well, that’s the main building.

Bovey – and, incidentally, it’s pronounced Boh-vee rather than bow-vee – also offers 22 three-storey luxury lodges in the grounds. The outsides and dimensions look terrific. I’m guessing the interiors are the same, but they were so popular at the time of my visit, that they were all occupied, many by repeat visitors which, I guess, speaks volumes.

The spa and activities

As for the facilities… the Elan Spa is a little old-fashioned, but nicely done – and the substantial indoor pool is great (although, given the speed Bovey Castle seems to evolve, that could be entirely different by now).

Check out the notice board, however, and, well, you (and your family) need never have a dull moment here. Croquet. Tennis. Shooting. Golf. Play with a ferret. Feed the chickens or goats… There’s a proper smorgasboard of eccentric entertainment on offer. We enjoyed a couple of lovely walks, watched the deer population get fed and learned to fly fish between meals and swims.

This “grand stately pile” really does cater for “every whim”, said The Telegraph. With “facilities galore” and “excellent service” it’s “hard to fault”.

Eating and drinking

Given the location, and the amount of farms and livestock you’ll see on the approach, it’s no surprise that Bovey’s catering is really quite good. It’s also a little more forward-thinking than you might expect from first appearances.

Smith’s Brasserie, the smart and spacious bistro, offers some straightforward classics – a burger, fish and chips, Caesar salad – but with a few neat 21st century/gastropubby twists. It’s still not molecular gastronomy, but estate venison ragu, with truffled pappardelle? Scotch egg with hogs’ pudding and baked apples? White carrot hummus? This is not your grandparents’ country house hotel.

For a more elevated experience, the Great Western Grill (reopening on Friday 30 June) gives the chefs a little chance to really break loose. The cooking is creative and fun, but not as much fun as the front of house.

It’s a slick experience, a celebration of the local larder, but it’s the team that really take it to a higher level. They’re efficient but not automatons and, if you’re up for the chat, you’ll have a thoroughly charming, relaxed and fun evening. And if you’re not, you’ll still be utterly spoiled and left to your own devices.

Afternoon teas are also popular and looked great, but, after the breakfast – the cracking, locally sourced experience you’d expect – and with dinner looming, scones were never likely to be an option…

Things to do

You mean ferret wrangling isn’t enough? Bovey Castle is very well located, with all of the grounds to explore not to mention the surrounding national park of Dartmoor, its scenery and charming villages. For a little seaside action, you’re a relatively short drive from Paignton and Torquay, or even Exmouth and Dartmouth.

If you’re doing the latter, there are beautiful views of the town (and a steam train ride) from the grounds of Greenway Estate, a National Trust property that used to be Agatha Christie’s home. The house is fascinating, too.

Or, you know, stay at the hotel and chill. If you get bored, you can always open a few wardrobes and maybe rule Narnia for a generation…

Neil Davey was a guest of Bovey Castle Hotel and Spa. Rooms start from £239 per night, based on two adults sharing on a B&B basis. Lodges are available from £649 per night, based on up to six adults sharing on a self-catering basis. Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey, Newton Abbot TQ13 8RE; boveycastle.com

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