Upper House Hong Kong: a serene sanctuary in the bustle of the city

It’s easy to get swept up in the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. With its incredible food scene, bargain shopping and vibrant nightlife, you never run out of things to see and do. Upper House Hong Kong offers a serene sanctuary amid the thrilling neon-powered chaos with dizzying views across Victoria Harbour. It aspires to be a home away from home and does this so well that it regularly appears on the World’s Best 50 Hotels list.

Why stay here?

After a relaxing flight via Helsinki on Finnair in a swish business-class seat that transforms into a super-comfortable bed, I was excited to check in. Upper House Hong Kong was created for design lovers. From the row of huge lanterns adorning the main hallway to the sculptural paintings hung from the walls in the rooms, the hotel is a work of art springing boldly to life. It was one of the first hotels designed by André Fu, the superstar Hong Kong architect and interior designer. Rooms are decorated in warm tones with oak cabinetry and sliding doors, muted furnishings, plush rugs, leather-topped tables and velvet chairs.

The hotel offers the biggest standard-size room in Hong Kong at 730 sq ft (important in a city where space is at a premium) and the king-size beds. Rooms start on the 38th floor with large windows that make the most of the amazing views out across verdant mountains and Victoria Harbour, where you can see Hong Kong’s iconic skyline, the towering skyscrapers stacked like rows of Lego blocks. Cushions are provided for the windowsills so you can sit and watch as the famous Star Ferry glides across the harbour and a kaleidoscope of lights illuminates the waterfront each night.

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I stayed in an upper suite that comes with a massive lounge area and bedroom. The large bathroom has marble floors and a rain shower and features a limestone bath as its centrepiece. There’s a free maxi bar – not mini-bar – where full-sized drinks (excluding wine and champagne) are free for guests. It’s a nice touch for travellers missing the ability to raid your fridge at home.

Eating and drinking

Salisterra on the 49th floor serves elevated Mediterranean cuisine in an elegant restaurant decorated with a showstopping chandelier. Breakfast is also served there with Chinese and English among its set menus, as well as à la carte options. I tried the Chinese set menu which came with plump dumplings and fluffy baos, silky-smooth congee and a fried doughstick.

Later in the evening, I sampled the restaurant’s tasting menu and tucked into tender octopus in a rich olive sauce, pillowy-soft aubergine, creamy fried ravioli and an abalone salad. Our main was a salt-baked whole sea bass, which was set ablaze in Pernod next to our dinner table for extra flavour. It was served with crispy charred padron peppers and roasted cauliflower. Dessert was a heavenly pineapple tarte tatin and vanilla ice cream topped with pistachios and caramel sauce.

In a city with so many excellent dining options, Salisterra certainly sets itself apart. If you’re looking for haute cuisine served in stunning surroundings with fantastic views, it’s a great choice. Afterwards, pop into the relaxed cocktail bar, the Green Room, for a nightcap.

Things to do

Upper House Hong Kong has no spa but it does provide in-room treatments as well as yoga and meditation sessions. The hotel offers wellness residences held across the road. Stone & Star do crystal and tarot readings – and any scepticism I had was obliterated by the warm presence of Joyce, the founder, during my session. It’s less about fortune telling and more about highlighting areas you can work on in your life.

You can also have a fun workout at the hotel’s Family Form fitness studio, while a team of chiropractors are on hand to relieve any back or posture issues, and there’s a nutritionist, too, who can tailor a food plan for you.

The most intriguing activity on offer is The Circuit, a collaboration with 10x Longevity. The wellness session is suitable for anyone obsessed with their biological age and begins with some time in a hyperbaric oxygen chamber, where you’ll breathe 97% oxygen (normally we breathe in 21%). This is believed to speed up wound healing, reduce inflammation and help with fatigue. After that, guests alternate time in the sauna with cold plunges in the pool, known as contrast therapy, which boosts circulation and muscle recovery. Finally, some time on an infrared bed stimulates collagen production and reduces signs of ageing. It’s leagues ahead of the standard wellness offerings at most hotels.

Upper House Hong Kong is located in Admiralty on Hong Kong Island, which means many of the sights on Hong Kong Island are within easy reach. I took a tram to Victoria Peak one day and went on a short walk to Lugard Road Lookout, for incredible panoramic views overlooking the city. I also visited Repulse Bay, one of the easiest beaches in Hong Kong to reach by public transport, and enjoyed golden sand and clear waters – a refreshing escape from the hubbub of city life.

The verdict

Upper House Hong Kong feels more like the super-stylish home of your dreams rather than a hotel. It’s achingly chic, taking minimalist luxury and turning it into something so artistic and impactful that you’ll be coveting pieces in the room for your own place.

Ann was a guest of Upper House Hong Kong, a Swire Hotels property, upperhouse.com; Finnair flies from London Heathrow to Hong Kong via Helsinki with return fares from £547 in economy, £1,115 in premium economy and £1,834 in business class, finnair.com