As our train winds through the Pembrokeshire hills, the number of passengers getting off at each station dwindles. By the time we reach our stop, we’re the only ones to disembark. We’ve come to this scenic corner of South Wales to visit the Grove of Narberth: a boutique hotel hidden within a glorious green patchwork of meadows and gardens.
The whitewashed Georgian manor house lies at the end of a private tree-lined path. Neil and Zoe Kedward bought the derelict property back in 2007, and set about painstakingly restoring the crumbling house and outbuildings. The result is something that feels quite special. It’s clear a lot of care has gone into choosing every last detail, from the tapestries that hang from the walls (a nod to the woollen mills nearby) to the jug of freshly made lemonade waiting by the front door.
Why stay here?
Rooms are tastefully decorated in shades of cream
(Image credit: Grove of Narberth)
Above all, it’s cosy. Stepping through the door on a chilly afternoon in October, the fire crackles invitingly and the delicate scent of sandalwood lingers in the air. The lobby in the main house is flanked by two living rooms decorated with soft woven rugs, comfy sofas and artfully arranged dried flowers. There’s even a – just as snug – third lounge upstairs. This means there’s always space for guests to warm up after a bracing walk or while away an afternoon curled up with a book.
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The hotel has just 13 rooms in the main building, along with a handful of cottages dotted throughout the grounds. Six are dog-friendly. We stayed in Henry – a beautifully appointed signature suite in calming shades of cream and oatmeal. Furnishings are a mixture of antiques and modern pieces, and there are thoughtful touches at every turn, from the pretty vase of flowers in the living room to the leaf-printed ceramic tiles adorning the walls.
Through a set of curtains lies the bedroom, complete with a gigantic four-poster bed fit for royalty (unsurprisingly, the suite is named after King Henry VII, who was born at nearby Pembroke Castle), and a dressing table topped with colourful bobbins. In the bathroom next door, you’ll find fluffy white robes, a roll-top bath (and separate monsoon shower), along with bath salts and a collection of heavenly geranium-scented body lotions and soaps. But my favourite place of all was the twin nooks looking out over the gardens: the perfect spot to read the newspaper with a cup of tea in the morning.
Eating and drinking
Mouthwatering appetisers at the Fernery
(Image credit: Grove of Narberth)
Breakfast is served in the Artisan Rooms, a laid-back brasserie that also serves seasonal Welsh dishes with vegetables from the walled kitchen garden. You won’t find a breakfast buffet here: instead there’s a selection of à la carte options including classics like a traditional cooked breakfast with homemade beans and black pudding, and a tasty rhubarb crumble porridge.
For white tablecloths and candles, head to the Fernery. Owner Zoe hand-pressed the dried ferns that decorate the walls here, and the tables are topped with vases filled with water plants.
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You’re in safe hands when it comes to the food. Executive chef Douglas Balish and his team have crafted an ever-changing five-course tasting menu that takes guests on a journey around Wales. The hotel’s knowledgeable sommelier, Cathryn, kicked things off by helping us choose the perfect bottle of wine, before taking us through a little map of the country, pointing out where that evening’s cheddar, lobster and eggs would be coming from.
We kicked things off with a beetroot cigar of pastry filled with taramasalata and topped with dots of lemon and wasabi gel; tiny tartlets brimming with goat’s curd and fresh tomatoes from the hotel’s vegetable garden; and delicious confit egg yolks served in their shells with freshly baked bread for dipping and a mushroom parfait with a tangy cherry glaze. But the stand-out dish was the Llandeilo fallow venison, served with a globe artichoke terrine and a tart quince jelly. There was just space for the silky Mayan chocolate ganache topped with a scoop of fig leaf ice cream before we retired to the moodily lit bar for a nightcap.
Things to do
Owner Zoe hand-pressed the dried fern leaves decorating the restaurant walls
(Image credit: Grove of Narberth)
If you like long walks, this is the place for you. Guests can head out on foot directly from the hotel, exploring the network of nearby trails, including trips to Caston Woods and Narberth Valley. The staff are particularly friendly and helpful; general manager Karen was keen to help with suggestions of things to do nearby. Around a 10-minute drive away is the town of Narberth, where you can spend the day browsing in antique shops, having lunch at one of the delis and visiting the castle ruins.
Further afield, around half an hour’ drive from Narberth, lies the seaside town of Tenby. Known as the “Welsh Riviera” thanks to its stunning beaches and colourful houses, it’s well worth visiting (especially in spring or autumn when the crowds are gone). This is a great base for exploring the Pembrokeshire coast. We followed the coastal path to Manorbier (which took around three hours), stopping along the way to marvel at the scenic views.
The verdict
A charming setting for an autumn break
(Image credit: Grove of Narberth)
For excellent food and warm hospitality, this independent boutique hotel is a safe bet. There’s no spa or gym here, but with the Pembrokeshire hills on your doorstep you won’t need them. A far cry from the big hotel chains, the Grove of Narberth feels like a home away from home. It’s well worth the journey.
Irenie Forshaw is the features editor at The Week, covering arts, culture and travel. She began her career in journalism at Leeds University, where she wrote for the student newspaper, The Gryphon, before working at The Guardian and The New Statesman Group. Irenie then became a senior writer at Elite Traveler, where she oversaw The Experts column.
