Four Seasons Seoul: a fascinating blend of old and new in South Korea

Seoul is a fun and vibrant city in which towering skyscrapers and futuristic architecture coexist with quirky cafes, traditional food markets and incredible shopping. It’s fringed by breathtaking mountains, so you never feel stuck in a concrete metropolis. There are plenty of five-star hotels to choose from: Four Seasons Hotel Seoul has a prime position in the Gwanghwamun district, close to many of the main sights.

Why stay here?

Four Seasons Seoul bedroom — Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the view of the neon-streaked city outside

After a relaxing flight via Helsinki on Finnair, on which I discovered a new love for blueberry juice, Karl Fazer chocolate and their specially designed Marimekko products, I was excited to arrive at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. The rooms are beautifully decorated with a warm and tactile look; the furnishings are in neutral shades with splashes of colour. Dark mahogany cabinets are paired with light oak wardrobes. Traditional vases, ornate boxes, and books on Korean ceramics decorate the shelves. Sleeping in the huge bed was like sinking into the clouds. The sleek marble bathroom, which contains Diptyque toiletries, features a heated toilet which even flushes itself.

The floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the view of the neon-streaked city outside, with mountains peaking over in the distance over the skyscrapers. There’s no need to switch on the TV – watching the non-stop flow of commuters and traffic down below is just as entertaining.

The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/flexiimages/jacafc5zvs1692883516.jpg

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

The hotel is close to Cheonggyecheon, a stream and public space that comes alive at night with people socialising, Myeong-dong with its delicious street food, and Bukchon Hanok Village with its quaint traditional houses. They’re all a short walk away. Four Seasons Hotel Seoul even has its own bus stop on the route from the airport.

Eating and drinking

Four Seasons Seoul bar — The seriously sexy basement bar is a great place to unwind

There are several restaurants at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul offering different international cuisines. Boccalino serves polished Italian fare while Akira Back dishes up modern Japanese food with a Korean twist. I tried Yu Yuan, the hotel’s Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant. The Essence Degustation tasting menu offered a delicious journey through the best of Chinese cooking with the crispiest Beijing duck wrapped in pancakes, a comforting soup with nutritious sea cucumbers, and sweet red beans served with refreshing coconut ice cream. Even the side dishes of spicy radishes and roast cashew were overflowing with flavour, while the chilli and XO sauces provided an umami explosion.

For breakfast, the Market Kitchen offers an international buffet with an overwhelming array of dishes. In the Korean section there are spicy padilla leaves, spinach banchan (side dish), several varieties of kimchi, and pork stew. A Korean street food section offers chewy tteokbokki (rice cakes), fried chicken, and Korean street toast (a salty sweet combo of egg, ham and a sprinkling of sugar). Also on offer are shrimp Chinese dumplings, tasty sushi, a pancake and waffle station, and the usual breakfast fare of eggs and cereal. Make sure to grab a table above the glass floor which shows the excavation site of some ancient ruins below. Here, you’ll also find robots whizzing by carrying used crockery for washing up. As I piled my plate high each morning, I found the setting an unexpectedly fascinating blend of old and new.

I also had breakfast at Maru in the stylish lounge area, and tried the Korean set menu which came with a very hearty portion of hair-tail fish with a citrus garnish, seaweed soup, silky steamed eggs with a plump prawn on the top, several banchans including earthy lotus root and two types of kimchi as well as a plate of fresh fruit. It was nutritious, delicious and extremely filling.

Confections by Four Seasons is a great place to indulge your sweet tooth with its mouthwatering cakes and tarts, and, like a lot of Korean treats, they’re not too heavy on the sugar. For drinks, Charles H. is the seriously sexy basement bar; the perfect place to unwind after a day’s sightseeing. It offers some fantastic mocktails – I tried one with pear, jasmine and tea, while feasting on a buttery lobster roll and crunchy fries.

Things to do

Four Seasons Seoul rooftop restaurant — The hotel is close to many of the must-see sites

Saunas, known as jjimjilbangs, are an important part of Korean culture. Four Seasons Hotel Seoul has wet and dry sauna rooms along with cold, warm and hot baths to submerge yourself into once the steam gets too much. The hotel’s excellent spa offers an array of treatments – I had lymphatic drainage during which I was stroked gently with a brush to eliminate toxins. It’s supposed to be good for fatigue, and helped my jet-lagged stupor. There is also a golf simulator so you can polish your handicap virtually, and three pools for those who want to get their laps in.

The hotel is right next to Gyeongbokgung Palace, the first royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, and Changdeokgung Palace, a Unesco World Heritage site. You can rent a traditional hanbok (Korean garment) and waft around both palaces (and receive free entry if you do). The changing of the guards at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a colourful affair that takes place every day (apart from Tuesday) at 10am and 2pm. Be sure to reserve in advance for the secret garden tour at Changdeokgung Palace – it’s a beautiful and serene spot that explodes into a riot of colour in autumn. Jogyesa temple is a Buddhist temple adorned with flowers and lanterns that is a short walk away, and worth checking out.

The verdict

Four Seasons Seoul rooftop — Expect fantastic views and great food at Four Seasons Seoul

Four Seasons is a brand that has become synonymous with effortless luxury and the Seoul branch is no different. It’s a classy hotel that offers understated glamour with attentive staff, great restaurants and fantastic views overlooking Gyeongbokgung Palace. It’s the perfect escape for when you want a break from Seoul’s many alluring attractions.

Ann was a guest of Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. Finnair flies from London Heathrow to Seoul via Helsinki with return fares from £606 in economy class, £1,127 in premium economy and £1,832 in business class; finnair.com

Ann Lee is a commissioning editor at The Guardian for features. Her writing has also appeared in The Independent, The Telegraph, The i Paper, The Standard, Metro and Radio Times, as well as The Week. She specialises in entertainment and travel. Over the years, she has interviewed many stars including Kathleen Turner, Michelle Yeoh, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Alexander Skarsgård and Jennifer Lopez. She enjoys travelling to far-flung places in her continual quest to eat the perfect meal, and her favourite city for food is Hong Kong.