Too many people pass through the city of Geneva on their way to the Alps, and don’t give it the time it deserves.
Geneva became the ‘Protestant Rome’ during John Calvin’s Reformation in the 1500s, a position that made it hugely influential. It is also a centre of watchmaking, chocolate production and global politics, not to mention the immense natural resources on its doorstep.
This is a city with history, culture, beauty and, above all, heart – what more could you want for a weekend away?
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Things to do
It is almost obligatory to eat chocolate when in Switzerland
First, you’ll want to get your bearings, so grab a tour with Welo on one of their electric TukTuks. They are surprisingly nippy, so yours can span sights including the Reformation Wall, the 140m Jet d'Eau fountain, and the United Nations complex easily.
Perhaps you prefer your history with a side of something red? On a Wine Tour run by Geneva Tourism you can get a solid understanding of the city, with extra stories about local viniculture traditions, and the chance to taste four delicious tipples straight from the steep banks of Lake Geneva.
The cobbled lanes of the Old Town are best explored at a leisurely pace, so give yourself plenty of time for some window-shopping and people-watching in this picturesque neighbourhood. The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève sits in a wide square, and has been the spiritual centre of the city since the 1200s. Entry is free but you’ll need to play (it’s worth it) to climb the tower for panoramic views over the city, lake, and mountains.
A favourite with locals is Les Bains Des Pâquis, a year-round swimming resort dating from the 1930s. In summer, you can bathe in the cool waters of Lake Geneva and sunbathe on a sandy beach, while in winter there are saunas and hammams. The lake is there for the brave to dunk their heads in, too.
Geneva is renowned for watches, and is home to Rolex, Chopard and more. Have a go at making and designing your own with a course at Initium in the city’s old town. You will learn about the history of watchmaking before building a bespoke piece from scratch.
The Patek Philippe Museum, which was founded in Geneva, is also the perfect place to learn more about watches. Explore a priceless collection of timepieces going back 500 years, to the very beginnings of the industry. It is a fascinating exhibition.
It is almost obligatory to eat chocolate when in Switzerland, so pick up a Choco Pass to get involved. It’s 40 Swiss francs, and you get a bag of confectionery from five chocolatiers of your choice, as well as a 10 franc voucher. You will not be disappointed.
You can also try your hand at making a delicious creation at La Bonbonnière, a chocolate shop, café and workshop in the centre. You will learn about how chocolate is made and techniques like tempering, before being let loose on your own project.
Culture vultures are well catered for here as well, with museums including that at Cern, the Ariana Museum, the International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent, the International Museum of the Reformation, and the UN Museum. Grab a Geneva City Pass to explore.
The city is also home to festivals throughout the year, from the winter’s Noël au Quai and Fête de l'Escalade, to the Swiss National Day fireworks in summer.
Eating and drinking
Geneva is home to both fine dining and casual neighbourhood spots
My culinary highlight was Le Bistrot Du Lion D’or, a neighbourhood spot in the former village of Carouge, with a history dating back to the early 18th century.The food, overseen by chef Romain Desvenain, this is the kind of life-affirming stuff that still makes you smile months later. The guinea fowl stuffed with Tuscan black cabbage was a standout dish, while my candied shallot tatin with smoked Lake Geneva fera (a freshwater fish) made the local ingredients shine.
For traditional Swiss food head to the historic restaurant at Hôtel Les Armures, serving local dishes like Lake Geneva perch, meringue with gruyère cream, and grilled meats with rösti potatoes. This is hearty food with an elevated twist.
Fondue is a must-do. In December, head to the Christmas market’s Chalet à Fondue for a memorable night by the lake. Otherwise, the aforementioned Restaurant Les Armures is also famed for its fondue.
For something different try Ottolenghi, the chef’s first branch outside of the UK. You’ll find his signature bold flavours in a chic setting on the banks of the Rhône. The pumpkin muhammara is a revelation, but don’t miss the cocktail menu too.
The unassuming Cottage Café would be easy to miss, but its daily changing menu and cosy atmosphere make it the ideal spot for lunch or a cosy dinner surrounded by locals.
Where to stay
Hotel les Armures has been tastefully renovated preserving the original features
Hôtel Les Armures
This former armoury from the 17th century is at the heart of the old town and could not be better located. The building has been tastefully renovated and the original features, like stonework, decorated wooden ceilings, and imposing beams, have all been retained. It’s been awarded a Michelin Key, so you can expect impeccable service, and luxury touches like robes and designer toiletries in its 32 rooms. Breakfast is served in a dedicated room with views out to the old town.
Jaymi McCann was a guest of Geneva Tourism