When is a hotel not a hotel? When it's mostly a château producing highly acclaimed Bordeaux on a hillside overlooking the charming town of Saint-Emilion. Alongside the production of such celebrated red wines, however, are what they call The Keys, a small – but beautifully formed – selection of rooms.
Why come here?
It is, by any stretch of the imagination, and by any definition of the word, a beautiful part of the world. Thanks to the French railway system (a stark contrast to our own over-priced, poorly funded, creaking alternative), it's also a very easy place to get to. And frankly, the number of tasting rooms, wine shops and restaurants tucked away in the charming maze of streets that is Saint-Emilion means you probably don't want to bring a car.
Château Troplong Mondot is close enough to the town for idle exploration but removed enough to be a proper little oasis.
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First and foremost, the château remains a working winery. There are only four accommodation options: The Art Studio, Edouard (named after Edouard Troplong, and hidden by wisteria that covers the side of the house), The Bell Tower Bedroom (with epic sunset views), and our accommodation for this trip, The Vineyard House. The latter is, as the name suggests, tucked away in the vines, a moderate 10-minute walk from the main property. It would be a bit of a struggle with a suitcase, but then that won't be your problem as such things are whisked away at check-in and delivered swiftly.
The Vineyard House is quite beautifully appointed. It has two bedrooms, both en suite, although it is possible to take them individually. There's also a shared lounge, with an open fireplace and well-stocked drinks fridge.
It's an exquisite space that oozes vintage charm and is flooded with natural light. And while it retains a genuine rustic feel, it's been nudged into the 21st century by, apparently, someone who's spent time in modern hotel rooms. The bed is comfy, the light switches are easy to follow, plugs are easily accessible and the shower is powerful.
While there's a little light pollution, the night sky views are also glorious. For those worrying about making your way to and from the house at night, there's a shelf by the door with what I can only describe as an industrial power flashlight to aid your journey.
The drinks
You're in the Bordeaux region and on a château so, obviously, there's one main option – although Troplong Mondot offer a variety of tasting experiences and assorted tours of the property.
The "Immersion", for example, is a private tour of the estate for a couple of hours, via an old Land Rover, followed by a vertical tasting of Mondot and Troplong Mondot wines. "Luncheon on the Grass" features a tour and a picnic lunch prepared by their chef. There's even a "Family Adventure", where kids can travel via miniature electric Land Rover and get a snack while the parents enjoy some wine. And if you're staying on site, there are many places to sit, chill and sip.
The restaurant
Artichoke ravioli
(Image credit: Bernhard Winkelmann)
The third aspect of Château Troplong Mondot's obvious appeal is Les Belles Perdrix, its Michelin-starred restaurant under the guidance of chef David Charrier. Like the wine, it's a celebration of terroir, whether it's a local supplier or vegetables taken from Charrier's on-site, permaculture vegetable garden. Early evening (or at lunch where there's an exceptionally good value menu at €58), the room is flooded with natural light, with views across the vines and estate. It's so ridiculously perfect for the region that we couldn't suppress a giggle. The meal that followed prompted similar reactions.
There are, of course, the sort of "cheffy flourishes" you'd expect with a Michelin star, but it's never pompous. Service is a delight, the cooking is creative, but there's also a lightness of touch and a sense of humour. The signature dish of duck tart, with mustard seeds, orange butter and "Bigarade" jus (Seville/bitter orange to you or me), is a fun take on duck à l'orange and will, I suspect, feature high on my top 10 dishes of the year. If I was sad enough to compile such a thing. Which, obviously, I am.
The same is true of the main course: local hen, sorrel from the garden, local morels in yellow wine with thick cream. There's also, perhaps inevitably, the cheese trolley of dreams. And, in a very pleasing touch, a little package of chocolate bread to take away and toast the following morning.
What to do?
(Image credit: Romain Ricard)
Relax. Drink excellent wines. Explore the exceptionally pretty Saint-Emilion (or the rest of the region). Sleep the sleep of the well-fed. Whether a base for a longer Bordeaux region trip or, like us, as a single night's diversion as part of a longer break in the lovely city of Bordeaux, Château Troplong Mondot is a charmer.
The verdict
Château Troplong Mondot is peaceful, gorgeous and elegant, but it is also friendly. Of course, there is also a lot of excellent wine to be had. What more could you ask for?
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