Valle dell'Erica Thalasso & Spa: a tranquil haven in Sardinia

Northern Sardinia is an exquisite place, with its turquoise seas, sumptuous sunshine, and mile after mile of rugged coastline – it's basically the Caribbean, but in Italy. And it's in this fabulous setting that you'll find the five-star Valle dell'Erica Thalasso & Spa, the resort more than matching the grandeur of its natural surroundings.

The mammoth resort consists of two distinct yet intertwined hotels – Hotel Erica and the newer La Licciola – offering 271 rooms and suites alongside a stretch of secluded coastline. It's an absolute haven of luxury and calm: the kind of place where beaches are quietly raked at dawn, golf buggies approach you offering lifts to your sun lounger, and, one morning, you stumble upon an actual helipad.

Why stay here?

My partner and I, and our four-month-old baby, stayed for three nights in a suitably named Junior Suite at the La Licciola hotel. The room was a stylish tribute to local Gallura traditions – vibrant, handmade fabrics dressed the headboard of the king-size bed, the furniture was made from materials sourced on the island, and warm splashes of terracotta-hued paint marked the walls in classic Mediterranean fashion.

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The rooms here are beautifully understated in a way that emphasises their most impressive feature: bi-folding doors revealing expansive, glittering sea views. There's even a small window in the bathroom (which features a powerful walk-in shower) where you can marvel at the beauty of the Med while rinsing off its salt.

Stunning sea views are a feature for most of the rooms at this hotel. However, there is, of course, another level of luxury, with the piece de resistance being the exclusive Archipelago Penthouse – an ultra-luxe oasis in its own private woods at the very highest point of the resort.

Eating and drinking

Meals at Valle dell'Erica Thalasso & Spa are an event in themselves, with seven restaurants to choose from, and the majority offering a buffet service. I imagine that the words "buffet service" might make the refined diner recoil in horror, but this isn't like any buffet you've visited before.

At Valle dell'Erica, buffet dining is an art form – a gastronomic adventure where diners lurch greedily from chef to chef, eyeing up fresh pasta stations, meat and fish options that make your stomach yearn for extra space, and even a mozzarella corner. Yep, you read that right: a mozzarella corner.

Let me start with the breakfasts. They're outrageously good. Every corner of the room reveals a new delight: fresh pastries, omelettes made to order, detox juices, cold meats, the more traditional cooked breakfast items, an array of gluten-free options and, of course, mozzarella.

And as you ease into the evening, the delights continue. For dinner, we sampled three restaurants. At Nautilus and Il Grecale, we enjoyed heavenly sea bass, butter-like steaks, fresh salads and a tiramisu that almost brought a tear to my eye.

On our final night, we dined at Li Ciusoni, a hilltop restaurant focused on traditional Sardinian specialities. After a buffet starter of antipasti (my favourite was the asparagus tips in olive oil), we were treated to a veritable procession of pork – from minced pork with hand-rolled gnocchi, to slow-roasted suckling pig. And, in an almost poetic twist of fate, we spotted a wild boar on the walk home that night.

Things to do

Valle dell'Erica's most heavenly feature is its access to the sea. Take a walk in any direction and you'll stumble across a rugged cove or a picture-perfect sandy beach. And what makes these spaces truly special is the balance the resort achieves between wilderness and luxury. One minute you're exploring a near-hidden bay that you think you've discovered for the very first time; the next, a member of staff appears from the bushes offering a clean towel and a spritzer. Bliss!

For those who prefer pools, there are several, including serene, adult-only spaces and more playful, family-friendly ones. And for grown-ups looking to get their wellness fix, the facilities here have all the ingredients for a stress detox. The Thalasso spa has seawater pools, heated pools, hammams and (a first for us) a fitness swimming pool where the gym bikes and trampolines are submerged in water. A gimmick? Perhaps. But we loved it and left relaxed, recharged, and perhaps a little more toned.

Another stand-out feature is the resort's offering for families. The kids' club Ericaland runs from morning to late evening and offers everything from cooking classes to dance shows, and even a full-on Robinson Crusoe survival adventure for the older ones. Our tiny tot was sadly too young to take part in any of these opportunities, so instead we made use of the babysitting service to sneak off for a swim together. This two-hour luxury may well have been the highlight of our trip.

The verdict

This mind-blowing resort didn't just meet our expectations – it quietly exceeded them. And although time seemed to stretch while we were there, three nights definitely wasn't enough.

Caroline was a guest of La Licciola at Valle dell’Erica Thalasso & Spa. The 2025 season runs until 5 October.