Getting to Traena in Norway’s Arctic Circle is “a bit of a schlep”, said James Stewart in The Times. From Oslo, you can catch a flight to Bodo and then take a passenger ferry to Onoy, “a small island transit hub on the Helgeland coast”.
The “first indication” that it’s going to be “worth it” comes as the ferry “weaves south where north Norway shatters into 20,000 islands”. But it’s confirmed on the final leg of the journey as a “fist of peaks nears in the open sea” during the hour-long crossing from Onoy to Husoy island.
Here you’ll find Ytri: a new luxury hotel “billed as ‘Norway’s most remote island retreat’”. At first glance it appears more like an “elongated village of small barns, their wooden cladding silvering nicely or painted rust-red, black and the green of oxidised copper”.
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The little “fishing island with 450 residents” doesn’t seem like an “obvious” choice for a swanky new retreat. But faced with “squeezed incomes and an ageing population”, the islanders voted “almost unanimously to create a hotel”.
This is a place made for “edge-of-the-map escapism”, said Chloe Frost-Smith in Vogue. Ytri has been built like a “contemporary coastal hamlet” with 38 rooms and suites, a boathouse, a restaurant serving “traditional open sandwiches” and a yoga and wellness area complete with saunas. Days are easy to fill with “hikes to ancient caves” and “candlelit dinners of seafood pulled from the water just metres from the hotel”.
Consider taking a shuttle boat to the nearby island of Sanna which “boasts three peaks”, said Worldcrunch. To reach the top of one of them, adventurous travellers must go through “what locals call ‘the tunnel of love’, an 800m-stretch dug inside the mountain”. The reward is the view: on your right stretches the “endless sea”, and on your left “the impressive contour of the continent dotted by white glaciers”.
