The wild mountains and coast of Campania

The Temple of Neptune: one of Paestum's 'stupendous' Greek temples

(Image credit: Nick Brundle Photography)

published 9 June 2024

The Italian region of Campania is best known for Naples and the Amalfi Coast, but south of them lies another glorious and much less touristy area. With its "cinematic" coastal scenery and wild mountains, the Cilento region is a dream for hikers, says Nina Burleigh in The New York Times – or for anyone looking to "staccare la spina" ("unplug").

Most of it lies within the Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni, Italy's second- largest national park – "699 square miles of beaches, cliffs, emerald vales, river gorges and mountain meadows". It's full of historic villages and fishing towns, and near its northern end sits ancient Paestum, site of some "stupendous" Greek temples – among the best-preserved in the Mediterranean – that inspired 18th century architects across Europe.

After the Second World War, the US army doctor Ancel Keys bought an old villa here and devoted his life to studying the "salubrious effects" of local eating patterns on the heart. In the fishing hamlet of Pioppi, there's a museum devoted to the Mediterranean diet he made famous, and the region still produces "some of the finest basics of Italian cuisine" – including wonderful extra-virgin olive oil, fresh seafood and excellent cheeses (the road to Paestum is "lined with shops selling mozzarella from the milk of Asian buffalo, possibly first introduced to Italy by the Greeks"). Indeed, among all the reasons to come hiking in the region, none is better than the chance to eat and drink lots of Cilento food and wine.