The island of Tobago – located 30 miles northeast of Trinidad, with which it forms a dual nation – offers a taste of "the unspoilt Caribbean", said Lyn Hughes in Wanderlust. The island has only a handful of large coastal resorts, which are confined to its flat southwest side. The rest of its coastline strikes a nice balance between "local life and low-key tourism".
Moreover, around two-thirds of Tobago's interior is covered with rainforest – making it an anomaly in the Caribbean, most of which has retained little of its original forest cover.
A "strange quirk" of Tobago's history helps explain why it has avoided the "overdevelopment of other Caribbean islands". In 1776, during a spell under British rule (Tobago regularly changed hands in the 18th century between the British, French and Dutch, before finally being ceded to Britain in 1814), the "world's first legally protected forest reserve" was created along the ridge that forms its mountainous spine. The purpose of Main Ridge, as the reserve was named, was to encourage precipitation; this, the British reasoned, would make Tobago's slave plantations more productive. Despite its original motivations, the reserve has since become part of the island's identity, and has helped inculcate a "green spirit", making Tobago the perfect destination for "discerning nature lovers".
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It's best to visit during the dry season, from January to June. A guided walk through Main Ridge will yield encounters with many bird species; you can even stay on the edge of the reserve, at the spectacular Cuffie River Nature Retreat. The island's rich marine life is also well worth exploring, via snorkelling, diving or glass-bottomed boat.
You can "swim" in the ocean on horseback, or take a night-time bioluminescence tour; and, if possible, arrange a trip to Little Tobago, the neighbouring island, which is an important breeding ground for sea birds.
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