5 tips for building a healthy skin care routine for tweens and teens

Kids have a growing skin care obsession perpetuated by fresh-faced underage influencers hawking elaborate, expensive routines. Girls as young as 7 follow routines that do more harm than good, according to a new peer-reviewed study published in Pediatrics by researchers at Northwestern University. This confirms fears many parents have about introducing skin care to their children. But there are ways to do it safely, experts say.

Cut down on unnecessary active ingredients

The study highlighted the overabundance of active ingredients being applied to teen skin through these routines. This includes "citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid," all of which are "mild chemical exfoliants known for their anti-aging effects," said Parents. There's little benefit from these exfoliants for tweens and teens who "do not have acne and who certainly don't have sun spots or wrinkles yet," said Molly Hales, the study author and a professor at Northwestern University.

Children do not need to follow elaborate 10-step skin care routines, board-certified dermatologist Kristin Baird said to Parents. "A gentle cleanser, moisturizer and daily SPF are often more than enough to support healthy skin."

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Incorporate sunscreen

One of the most alarming findings in the study is that only 26% of the elaborate skin care regimens observed included sunscreen, "arguably the most important product for any age range but especially for kids," said Real Simple. Broad-spectrum SPF, "ideally in a gentle mineral formulation," should be a "foundational part of any daytime skin care routine starting in childhood." Starting to protect skin early from UV damage is "far more impactful than any trending serum or mask."

Seek a dermatologist's input for acne concerns

While many teens will be fine with a pared-down routine of just a cleanser, sunscreen and moisturizer, some might have persistent acne problems. As children near puberty, they may "produce more acne-causing hormones," said CNN.

In those cases, Sonal Shah, the director of pediatric dermatology at University Hospitals Rainbow Babies & Children's Hospital, recommends trying over-the-counter products that contain either salicylic acid or a low percentage of benzoyl peroxide. Teen skin care "does not have to be complicated and does not have to be very expensive," said Shah. Parents can talk to a board-certified dermatologist or pediatric dermatologist if there are "skin concerns that are significant or don't respond to over-the-counter treatment."

Monitor what your kids watch but keep an open mind

If your tween or teen appears to be drawn to a social media skin care trend that could be harmful to their skin barrier, as well as their self-esteem, try to limit their exposure to popular "skinfluencers." The first step is to "limit access to TikTok and other social media until your tween is older, 13 and up," Molly O'Shea, a pediatrician and spokesperson for the Academy of American Pediatrics, said to Parents.

For older kids, it's essential to try to understand the social aspect of youth beauty and wellness content, Hales said to CNN. The videos show a "kind of playful self-expression that's very appealing to this age group," she said. This is especially true for girls who are "just starting to develop their own sense of independent identity, how they present (themselves) in the world, their gender identity and, in many cases, what it means to be a girl in our society."

Talk about your concerns

Address your concerns directly with your kids. "Have open conversations with children about the messages they see on social media, as well as their own intentions behind purchasing particular skin care products," Jennifer Harriger, a professor of psychology at Pepperdine University, said to CNN.

Ask them questions about why they feel drawn to certain skin care trends. Often, Baird said to Parents, they are "looking for control, confidence or a sense of belonging, not just better skin."