Flipping good: why pancakes take some beating

When it comes to that comforting breakfast treat, there’s so much more to life than lemon and sugar, says Sudi Pigott

pancake

Who doesn’t love pancakes? They make us happy. There has to be something in that flipping technique that gets the endorphins going. In times of world uncertainty we turn to comfort foods – soothing, filling, almost instant gratification. Yet the flipside is that to show we are not feeling insular, we take risks and embrace foods of the world. Every culture has its own pancake tradition, always talked about with great affection. Pancakes in all their delicious diversity have long been one of the most pleasurable, life-affirming parts of my culinary explorations, and the inspiration for my book – Flipping Good: Pancakes from around the World.

My own fondest memories are of robust, buckwheat galettes complet (topped with a fried egg) in kitsch cafes in Brittany; exotic, sizzling, turmeric-infused banh xeo pancakes with their complex layers of flavour and freshness, wrapped in lettuce leaves with masses of fragrant herbs first experienced in Vietnam; and the sheer decadence of crepes suzette flambeed to order at The Ritz London. I've set out to demonstrate that there's a culinary world for the gastronomically curious to explore, beyond pancakes with lemon and sugar. Serendipitously, pancakes are very much on-trend, thanks largely to the explosion of street food, an interest in alternative gluten-free flours, more experimental ingredients and the popularity of eating brunch-like meals all day.

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