Il Giardino restaurant review: Rome with a view
Near panoramic views and the best of Roman gastronomy at this Dorchester Collection hotel
Without question, Rome is one of the most beautiful cities in the world to walk in. From the Vatican to the Trevi Fountain, and from the Pantheon to the Coliseum, the city is a wayfarer's delight.
But sometimes a break from sightseeing is required and that's where Eden comes in. Hotel Eden that is, which sits on a quiet street just a stone's throw from the madding crowds pounding up and down the Spanish Steps, and is part of the Dorchester Collection of hotels.
True to its name, Hotel Eden is an oasis for weary travellers. It boasts a gloriously opulent marble interior, three restaurants and blissfully cool air conditioning – essential when the mercury hits 40 degrees.
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Eden's top-floor bar and restaurant, Il Giardino, offers delicious food, affordable, high-quality wines and magnificent view of the city thanks to its floor-to-ceiling windows. Its all-day bar is chic but relaxed, and from your prime spot by the window or on the terrace, you can plot your next steps around the city.
If you can tear your eyes away from the views across Rome – you can see both the Vatican and the imposing Altare della Patria monument – you'll be treated to a whistle-stop tour through the best of modern Roman gastronomy.
Executive chef Fabio Ciervo's menu offers a contemporary twist on traditional Roman fare. Foodies will love the 'tapas' style cicchetti – highlights include fried courgette blossom stuffed with oozing mozzarella, meltingly good anchovies and crispy seasoned calamari – but the menu also features pizzas, salads and a selection of Italian salamis.
Feeling as though we had earned it after a marathon morning of sightseeing, my lunch companion and I plunged into the heartier main menu, starting with a plate of rich, creamy burrata, delicately dressed with olive oil. This was swiftly followed by a starter of aubergine ravioli stuffed with mozzarella and baby tomatoes and a simply exceptional linguine rosa with delicious plump prawns.
As the saying goes, when in Rome do as the Romans do, so we opted for the full four-course menu. A main course of chicken paillard came lightly seasoned with rosemary and accompanied by tangy rocket and a tumble of ruby red tomatoes. The tender veal sirloin, meanwhile, was served with piquant lemon and tangy capers. Neither lasted long on our plates.
Keen to see those breathtaking views again, we ordered tiramisus and espressos in the adjacent lounge. We didn't regret it. Il Giardino's twist on the much-interpreted Italian classic comes served with a sweet coffee sauce and fresh berries. And while there are probably as many tiramisus in Rome as there are restaurants, this one feels somehow quintessential.
There's a lot to do and see in Rome and ticking off your to-do list can be a weary business. If you feel a sudden urge to escape the fray, and want superb food, views to die for and snazzy surroundings Il Giardino on the top floor of the Hotel Eden might just be the perfect spot.
Il Giardino, 49 Via Ludovisi, Rome, Italy, www.dorchestercollection.com
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Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.
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