New read: Yves Saint Laurent Accessories
A celebration of the iconic fashion designer’s couture accessories is out this month
On 22 January 2002, Yves Saint Laurent showcased his final couture collection at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. An audience of 2,000 were invited, while several thousand onlookers watched on in awe from giant screens placed outside the venue. This was the grand finale of a soaring 40-year career for Saint Laurent, the man who had stood at the helm of the fashion industry since 1962. This October, a retrospective new tome pays homage to a part of the master couturier’s career that is rarely documented; his iconic accessory collections.
A true pioneer of innovation, Saint Laurent shook up and changed the course of fashion design throughout his lengthy career. His haute couture ensembles gained worldwide press and a cult following, which grew significantly each season. In 1962, just one year after the French designer founded his eponymous fashion label, he debuted his Spring/Summer collection. Models walked the catwalk wearing elegant cuts, amplified by a minimalist monochrome colour palette and luxurious accessories – one of which was the soon-to-be iconic jet bead necklace made by Scemama. Paired with a polka dot headscarf, waist-clenching dress and oversized hat, the necklace featured a round pendant constructed with black and crystal diamante, and embellished with red and black glass drops. The classic Parisian party girl ensemble had been revived.
Two decades later, in January 1982, his Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection was debuted at the Salon Imperial of the Hotel Inter-Continental, Paris. Model Amalia Vairelli walked the catwalk adorning a pleated turban, accessorised with a sequined palm leaf. Revolutionary of its time, the headpiece was said to be inspired by a book he’d read on the subject of India. Famously known for his hatred of travel, Saint Laurent opted for books, artworks and exhibitions to give him the design inspiration he needed. On this occasion, a strong palette of primary colours referenced Indian design, the luxe silks and ornamented fabrics coming to life as the models fiercely walked the catwalk.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Saint Laurent worked hard to establish the YSL woman through an empowering lens during his career. Perhaps symbolic of his love of classic Parisian glamour, we can see this theme evolve from his early sketches, taking form on his models through significant accessories and crown-like headdresses, which could be seen in Autumn/Winter 1981’s gold headdress created by Claude Lalanne and later through dramatic accessories in Autumn/Winter 1999’s corn crown. Though widely recognised for his elegant take on haute couture, statement jewellery became a reoccuring feature throughout his collections, giving the models a heightened status of power.
The book brings together sketches, photographs, advertising campaigns and previously unpublished materials in an unprecedented exploration of this underexposed side of one of the fashion world’s most illustrious figures.
Yves Saint Laurent Accessories is published by Phaidon. £39.95; phaidon.com
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The unparalleled leader of the gentle parenting movement
In the Spotlight Dr. Becky became the face of a revolution in how we treat our children
By David Faris Published
-
One Great Cookbook: Madhur Jaffrey's 'Vegetarian India'
The Week Recommends The 2015 tome will reshape how you think about both vegetables and Indian food
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
How to find someone you trust to help with retirement planning
Speed Read Prepare for your golden years
By Becca Stanek, The Week US Published
-
Silversea cruise review: a Central and North American adventure
The Week Recommends An incredible journey featuring cultural exploration, cooking classes, comfort and more
By Yasemen Kaner-White Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published