Ahead of his whistle-stop three-night visit to the UK next week, The Week Portfolio caught up with the world-famous Argentine chef, author, and restaurateur Francis Mallmann via email to find out what lights his fires.
Cooking with fire is as old as human civilisation, but suddenly it is everywhere in the world of haute cuisine. Why do you think that is?
The world is tired of molecular cooking and reaching out to fire with a modern mind has brought delicious food back to the table.
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“Chef, restaurateur, pyromaniac”, is how the Daily Telegraph described you. “The most interesting chef in the world”, is how Esquire put it. How would you describe yourself?
I'm a generalist, meaning that my interests reach out into many fields and they have a big impact on my life and work.
Your career began with you writing to every Michelin-starred chef in France to ask for a break. If you could go back in time, what would you tell your 20-year-old self?
You are doing well... it will be a long path but hold on.
Your career has you travelling constantly. What can you tell about a culture from its food?
Food is one of the most profound and revealing parts of a culture.
And do you have a favourite nationality of cuisine at the moment?
I like everything simple which is the most difficult. Probably everyday Italian cooking.
Which chefs inspire you most? And what inspires you away from the world of food?
The River Cafe has been always in my heart and their chefs Rose Gray and Ruthie Rogers. Nature and wildlife is sublime and so inspiring.
Argentina has been in a state of financial crisis lately. Are you concerned or hopeful for your country? And do you regard yourself as political?
My heart beats with my country. I'm in love with it. There is a romance in how we live over and over with adversity.
If you could only cook with five ingredients for the rest of your life, which would you choose?
Salt, olive oil, Basmati rice, Parmesan cheese and red cabbage.
How will people’s eating habits be different in 100 years’ time, do you think?
No more animals.
And, looking back from that vantage point, how would you like to be remembered?
As a man who lived his life through his convictions.
Francis Mallmann at CUT at 45 Park Lane will take place for three nights from 3 to 5 October. Reservations can be made from 6.30pm with the last sitting at 9.30pm. The six-course tasting menu is priced at £280, excluding drinks. For more information or to make a booking, email CUT.45L@dorchestercollection.com or telephone +44 (0)20 7493 4545.
