On safari in Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi
Safaris are expensive, but you get what you pay for. You can slot a couple of days into a trip to South Africa, but the camps are a little too comfortable and the game viewing a little too contrived to provide more than an appetiser for a longer trip further into Africa.
The best time to go is in the dry season, up until October, when the animals come down to the water to drink but the landscape is parched and less scenic. We started off on the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls (pictured below), reached by a flight which connected to the overnight British Airways flights to Johannesburg. We arrived at the park gates when they opened at 6am; visitors are few and the sun rising over the falls was spectacular. After breakfast back at the hotel, there was plenty of time for a helicopter ride, numerous other activities or just lounging round the hotel.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The Victoria Falls Hotel, built in 1904, offers faded colonial grandeur – faded enough to be charming but grand enough to have the best location and grounds. As often in Africa, the service is erratic but always smiling and anxious to please.
An early morning transfer across the Zambian border took us to Livingstone for the onward flight by a single-propeller small plane to the Lower Zambezi National Park. This lies across the river from Mana Pools in Zimbabwe, but has the advantage of wildlife viewing by boat as well as a simpler itinerary.
Chongwe River Camp occupies a picturesque setting among acacia trees on the Chongwe river, close to where it joins the Zambezi. Elephants stroll through the camp by day, hippos by night and the exceptional friendliness of the staff together with generous servings of Malawi gin ensure highly sociable mealtimes. Expeditions by boat make the game viewing more varied and comfortable – the tracks for the jeeps to and through the park are in poor condition.
The flight that brought us here carried on to Mfuwe, the access point for South Luangwa National Park. We stayed at Kaingo Camp on a bank above the Luangwa river, which provides great vantage points for seeing wildlife. The guides, as elsewhere, tend to focus on the big cats, but if you are lucky enough to see a pack of lions stalk a herd of buffalo before bringing one down, you will see why.
As by the Zambezi, the birdlife will convert the hardest cynic into an ornithologist while the beautiful ebony groves provide shelter from the heat of the sun. Each chalet has a deck looking out over the river, the staff are hospitable and the Malawi gin plentiful, but the key differentiator here was the excellent food provided by a resident chef from South Africa.
Another flight from Mfuwe took us via Lilongwe to Monkey Bay for a few days’ rest by Lake Malawi, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. Bilharzia – snail fever – makes swimming from the shore inadvisable, but the unique ecology makes it a magnet for snorkelling and scuba divers.
Though the Pumulani is beautifully situated with spacious villas, two swimming pools and the usual range of watersports, our stay was marred by poor management.
A visit to the nearby village provided a stark reminder that Malawi is much poorer than Zambia, while a boat trip to nearby Cape Maclear revealed some attractive-looking, cheap and cheerful alternative accommodation.
From Lilongwe, the direct flight to Johannesburg connects with the BA flight home.
Our trip was arranged by Safari Consultants; safari-consultants.com; 01787-888590.
This article was originally published in MoneyWeek
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Exploring Easter Island, one of the world's most remote inhabited islands
The Week Recommends It takes time and effort to travel to this mystical locale
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Linda McMahon, the former wrestling mogul tapped for Department of Education
In the Spotlight Longtime Trump ally set for nomination as secretary of the agency despite limited background in the field
By David Faris Published
-
Russia vows retaliation for Ukrainian missile strikes
Speed Read Ukraine's forces have been using U.S.-supplied, long-range ATCMS missiles to hit Russia
By Arion McNicoll, The Week UK Published
-
SkySafari Kenya: let your wildest dreams take flight
The Week Recommends Make the most of your time in the wild with a fly-in tour of Kenya's star safari destinations
By Holden Frith, The Week UK Published
-
Take advantage of sublime October weather at these 7 hotels
The Week Recommends Rain, snow and sleet will absolutely not be keeping you from your destination
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
The Count of Monte Cristo review: 'indecently spectacular' adaptation
The Week Recommends Dumas's classic 19th-century novel is once again given new life in this 'fast-moving' film
By The Week UK Published
-
Death of England: Closing Time review – 'bold, brash reflection on racism'
The Week Recommends The final part of this trilogy deftly explores rising political tensions across the country
By The Week UK Published
-
Sing Sing review: prison drama bursts with 'charm, energy and optimism'
The Week Recommends Colman Domingo plays a real-life prisoner in a performance likely to be an Oscars shoo-in
By The Week UK Published
-
Kaos review: comic retelling of Greek mythology starring Jeff Goldblum
The Week Recommends The new series captures audiences as it 'never takes itself too seriously'
By The Week UK Published
-
Blink Twice review: a 'stylish and savage' black comedy thriller
The Week Recommends Channing Tatum and Naomi Ackie stun in this film on the hedonistic rich directed by Zoë Kravitz
By The Week UK Published
-
Shifters review: 'beautiful' new romantic comedy offers 'bittersweet tenderness'
The Week Recommends The 'inventive, emotionally astute writing' leaves audiences gripped throughout
By The Week UK Published